Frogtography, Used Camera and Lens Reviews

Category: Camera Reviews

Reviews of camera bodies, old and new

Lens comparison: Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.4 G vs Nikon Z 50mm f/1.8 S lens
I recently got my hands on a copy of the Nikon Z 50mm f/1.8 S lens (hereby called the 50mm 1.8 S). Having made the transition to Nikon Z series cameras after almost 10 years with the DSLRs, I have been slowly but surely transiting to the Z system, including lenses.
I was curious as to how it compared to my stalwart companion of coming 10 years, the Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.4 G, here called the 50mm 1.4 G. I was able to do some comparisons of the two lenses’ image quality plus anecdotal comparisons of usage experience.
The Nikon Z 50mm f/1.8 Price in Singapore
listing from camera stores on Carousell, a 2nd hand platform
I was always a fan of getting used gear as I had the confidence in being able to check them before making the purchase. I got my Nikon 50mm G at SGD$400 almost 10 years ago on a used gear forum in Singapore.
Recently, I bought the Nikon Z 50mm 1.8 S at a reasonable price of SGD $450 (a hefty 37% discount from the street price of about $711). While I am looking to offload the G lens (still going strong!) to cover some of the cost of the S lens, readers may wish to look out for a similar deal in your home country and get this lens if you can (spoiler alert!)
Comparing the Weight and Size of the 50mm 1.4G vs the 50mm f/1.8 S
The 50mm G and FTZ combo is about the same size as the 50mm S
The 50mm S weighs 415g, basically the same as the G lens and FTZ combined (G lens at 280g + FTZ at 135g = 415g). One issue that held me back with getting the lens initially was the weight. I was far to accustomed handling the Nikon D750 and 50mm G lens and that was such a compact combo.
However, having shot with the 50mm S on assignment and also during my cruise trip, I must say that the 50mm S balances very well with the Nikon Z6 MkI and I had no major issues with handling.
Filter thread
filter thread comparison, 58mm for the G lens and 62mm filter thread for the S lens
Unfortunately, upgraders will need to get new filters for the 50mm 1.8 S if you use them. The filter thread is now 62mm instead of the old and somewhat more common(?) 58mm. Not a big issue if you don’t use them at all though.
Image Quality differences between the 50mm G and Z lens
Sharpness and contrast
Centre crop: 50mm f/1.8S on the left | 50mm f/1.4G on the right
Lens optical designs have come a long way. Nikon was not kidding when they said that they designed the S series for professionals. This is a sharp lens.
Above is a centre crop of the images taken with both lenses. In Lightroom, blown up 100%, I can still see individual brick details on the 50mm S. The 50mm 1.4G in comparison, looks like I misfocused (I didn’t, trust me). Both lenses were shot at f/1.8.
Differences in contrast levels between the lenses is also like heaven and earth. The S lens has plenty of “bite” that the G lens simply lacks. In contrast (pun intended), the G lens looks blurry and hazy (like me after drinking too much whisky).
Z mount on the left, F mount on the right.
The corners on the 1.4G lens was a mess, more blurriness and haziness in the corners. Granted, for my use case at f/1.8 or 1.4 on the G lens, I tend to position my subjects in the central area (not dead centre though). I don’t tend to care about corner performance much, but if I had to position my subjects in the corners shooting wide open, I would think twice.
On the other hand, the 50mm S had no issues with corner sharpness whatsoever. Whatever engineering the lens designers had to do to provide this level of image quality on this lens, it was worth it.
Image sharpness is through the roof. In Lightroom, I was able to zoom in 100% and see the individual leaves on the trees, even in the corners. The image will sharpen up as you stop down from 2.8 to 4, but to be honest, I would have no qualms positioning my subject anywhere on the frame.
Fringing issues
200% crop: 50mm G with heavy purple fringing
200% crop: 50mm S with little to no fringing
Fringing is an issue that is quite easily solved for Lightroom users, just tweaking the slider will help with removing the ugly purple fringing that usually pops up at high contrast areas.
The performance from the S lens is stonkingly good, I don’t know what Nikon did when they made the lens or optimised the software in camera for the lens, but I hope they continue it!
Bokeh
Bokeh is always subjective, personally, I don’t mind the bokeh from the lens. Here are some sample shots of random food and drinks for reference.
shot at 1.8
Autofocus
The focus ring is pretty wide, but focus by wire only. There is no AF distance marking (lens has been wrapped with carbon fibre)
Right when it was released, the Nikon 50mm f/1.4G lens was never an award winning design for autofocus speed. Even compared to the original AF-S 50mm f1.8 G, AF speed wasn’t that fast or even slower.
The original D lenses were way faster. Still, in terms of accuracy, I had no issues all these years with my D3, D800 and finally D750, even when I was using the outer AF points. On my Z6, the 50 G and the FTZ combo worked well for sure.
The 50mm f/1.8 S, however, was noticeably faster on my tests and smoother. I suspect that the smoothness is due to the new stepping motor that has been implemented in the Nikon lenses recently. AF wise, this lens is a no brainer for hybrid shooters looking to upgrade. One issue, however, is that the focus ring on the S lens is fly by wire. This is one thing I don’t like.
Call me an old fogey, but sometimes I do prefer to manual focus and in those situations, I would like to have precise control and know that me turning the ring will also move the elements in the lens. Not a dealbreaker, but people getting the lens should definitely take this into consideration.
Should you upgrade from the 50mm 1.4G to the 50mm 1.8 S?
The 50mm 1.4G lens has been a staple of Nikon photographers everywhere, from amateur right up to working professionals. I still remember when the Nikon Z 50mm 1.8S was announced, people were groaning everywhere as soon as they saw the 1.8 maximum aperture.
I remember being somewhat disappointed myself at the announcement, since my perception of “pro-ness” usually meant a big, chunky lens with a large sexy aperture.
Granted, the lens wasn’t that small, but it was a part of the S line prime lenses that were all more or less the same size and design aesthetics, so it looked pretty nice to me and handy too.
When I finally was able to get a copy of my own (I’ve already used a few loaner lenses before), I was quite comfortable with the lens and it’s performance.
I would buy it again if a similar deal came along, would you get one? 🙂
Key points:
Pros
-Somewhat light
-Sharp wide open, shoot with impunity
-Optically outstanding
-Somewhat cheap (better prices for used gear)
Cons
-Not that cheap compared to traditional nifty fifties, especially brand new
-No f/1.4 aperture (in 2024, there is a 1.4 vers!), there is also the massive and expensive f/1.2 lens if you need it
Other articles:
I also do a comparison of the F and Z mount 85mm lenses and review the Z mount 35mm 1.4.
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July 17, 2025
Review: Nikon AF-S 85mm 1.8G F mount vs Nikon 85mm 1.8S Z mount
When Nikon made the jump from the F mount, with all it’s years of history, to the new Z mount, it promised that the larger mount and shorter flange distance would allow for better lens designs.
I’ve had the Nikon AF-S 85mm 1.8G (hereafter 85mm 1.8G) for close to 10 years now, and I managed to get my hands on a loan copy of the Nikon 85mm 1.8S (85mm 1.8S) for the Z mount.
The loan was from Nikon Experience Hub Singapore, but the thoughts are my own (I am not sponsored by anyone, would love to get a sponsorship though).
Here, I wanted to compare the difference between the Nikon AF-S 85mm 1.8G F mount and the Nikon 85mm 1.8S Z mount, and see if it is worth upgrading when you already have the older lens.
Bigger, better? Lens handling explored
The 85mm 1.8S is longer than the 1.8G, but once you add the FTZ adaptor on the G lens, it becomes heavier and longer. The 1.8G is also fatter.
Ergonomically, the 1.8G has a smaller focus ring, though for videographers, the focus ring is coupled to the mechanism, allowing for actual, precise manual focusing on the fly.
The 1.8S has a larger focusing ring, it is smooth, but being focus by wire, some people may not like it. Personally, I prefer the focusing ring on the 1.8G but that’s just me being old fashioned. Focus by wire works fine in practice for my needs.
If you are using filters and you’re upgrading from the G to S version, there’s no issue here. Both lenses have a 67mm filter thread. Personally, I use a protective filter from B+W on the front of the lens just in case of dust or sand exposure in the field.
On my Nikon Z7II, the AF-S 85mm 1.8G feels well balanced, even with the FTZ adaptor. According to online specs, the combined weight is 485g (350g + 135g). In comparison, the 85mm 1.8S weighs 470g just for the lens.
In field usage, I doubt if anyone will really feel the weight difference.
In terms of overall handling, mounted on the same Nikon Z7II body, both lenses feel good in hand.
Autofocus
In this blog, I am not able to show the speed of the AF in both combinations, so you’ll need to take my word for it. I don’t see major differences in speed between the two. During work, the AF-S 85mm 1.8G suffices in terms of AF speed on my Nikon Z7II.
The stepper motor on the 1.8S might be nice for people doing automatic focus pulling in camera (you can control the autofocus speed in the movie settings) but since I prefer manual focus when focus pulling anyway, there is no incentive here for me to upgrade.
Image Quality Comparisons
Sharpness
85mm 1.8G on the left, 85mm 1.8S on the right, both shot wide open
For my usage, the most important aspect of the lens is sharpness, contrast and bokeh.
The screenshots are from lightroom at 100% zoom.
You can see that there is an overall significant improvement in sharpness from the 85mm 1.8 S compared to the 1.8G. There is greater “bite” in the images, especially when you look at the outlines of the buildings.
Also, I noticed that there is chromatic aberration along areas of high contrast in the 1.8G which is absent in the 1.8S.
For the 1.8G, sharpness improves dramatically once you stop down beyond f/2.8. For the 1.8S the sharpness is already there wide open, the additional improvements won’t matter to most people in the field.
Purple Fringing Present?
In this image, you can see the difference even further. The leaves on the trees for the 1.8G shot are blurred, while the leaves remain crisp on the picture taken on the 1.8S. I am also noticing purple fringing on the edges of the white painted building.
Bokeh
Bokeh Comparison G on the left, S on the right
When comparing the bokeh, I’m not seeing any major differences between the two. Ideally, I would prefer to have a model to shoot with but I will have to make do with my fat cat plushie. For my use, bokeh would not be something I would consider when thinking about whether to upgrade to the S version.
1.8G on the left, 1.8S on the right
Price
Price of the 85mm S lens
Price of the 85mm G lens
Price of the 85mm G lens
In Singapore, as of July 2024, the price difference between the G and the S versions is about 2-2.5 times at pre-loved pricing. You might be able to get a 85mm 1.8S for about SG$750-800, while the 1.8G will cost you between SG$300-$450 depending on the condition. Brand new, shops are the selling the 85mm S lens for slightly under SG$1000.
I would not buy the AF-S 85mm 1.8G new in 2024. If budget is a big issue but you still need to shoot native Z mount, the Viltrox 85mm 1.8 might also be worthy of consideration (I wish I had a copy to test though).
Conclusion, Buy the Nikon 85mm 1.8G or Z 85mm 1.8S?
For my own usage, given that I don’t need absolute sharpness in my work in corporate event shoots and casual photoshoots where the output is mainly social media, I’ll stick to the Nikon AF-S85mm 1.8G with the adaptor. The weight and size differences are minimal and acceptable for me.
Being able to save the extra $400 bucks for other equipment that can make a significant difference in my services to clients (a drone, for eg.) rather than the much better sharpness and lower chromatic aberration, make more sense to me.
However, if you need native Z mount, and can appreciate the superb sharpness, smooth focusing of the stepper motor and a less fiddly 85mm solution, go for the Nikon 85mm 1.8S, it’s an outstanding lens that is worth your money.
Looking for a 50mm for your Z mount camera? Check out my thoughts on the 50mm 1.8S here.
If you’re a fan of something wider, I also talk about the Nikon Z 35mm 1.4 here.
July 17, 2025
Nikon Z30 vs Z50: Which APS-C Camera is Right for You?
The Nikon Z30 (left) and Z50 (right)
The Nikon DX camera lineup started with the Nikon Z50, a capable APS-C camera using a similar 20 megapixel sensor as the DSLR D500, ie. a tried and trusted image machine.
The Z50 was released way back in October 10th 2019, before the pandemic, and likely many Z camera users got one as a backup camera to their main full frame body.
I got my Z50 in 2020 as a backup camera to my Z6 Mk I. It has proven to be a solid choice, accompanying me on holidays and small assignments alike because of the power packed into a small body.
Fast forward 3 years, and the Z30 was released in August 5th 2022, targeted at video content creators and streamers. It was not marketed as an upgrade to the Z50, but are there enough quality of life improvements for you to replace the Z50 with the Z30?
If you are looking to get an APS-C Z camera, which is better for you?
In this comparison article, let’s try to answer these questions.
Ergonomics
Weight
The Nikon Z30 weighs 405g while the Z50 weighs 450g, the difference is likely due to the lack of a viewfinder and flash unit on the Z30. Still, I doubt most people will notice the weight difference, especially when you have larger lenses (like a Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4D!) mounted.
Both are light enough with small primes and the included kit lens.
Grip
Z30 on the left, Z50 on the right
Both cameras have similar feeling grips. My hands are about average for an Asian male, and I have no issues holding the cameras with the kit lens.
When the lens is bigger, say when I’ve adapted an F mount (especially telephoto)lens onto them, I tend to hold the lens rather than the camera anyway.
Again, little differences between the two. I would say, however, I tend to hold the flip out screen of the Z30 and the grip when using the camera with 2 hands.
Button Layout
Back button layout on the Z30 (all physical buttons)
Back button layout on the Z50 (the zoom and disp buttons are on the screen)
One thing that continues to annoy me is the use of capacitative buttons on the back of the Z50 rather than physical buttons. In a warm place, there is no issue.
In a cold environment, when I am wearing gloves, this is a major hindrance when I need to change display settings like level and zooming in and out of the picture.
If you compare this to the Z30 back button layout in the picture on top, I personally prefer that, especially since most of the controls are physical and placed on the right side.
The delete button on the left is fine, when i review or delete any unwanted pictures I tend to use 2 hands anyway.
Top button layout on the Z30
Top button layout on the Z50
I had no issues with the top control layout on the Z50. The lever to switch between photo and video modes made a lot of sense to me, and I never had trouble reaching any of the buttons I wanted on the top.
The Z30 made some changes to the top button layout.
The video recording button has shifted down towards to the back and has become larger, a nod towards the more video centric purpose of the camera.
The removal of the “Scene” mode is a surprise since I expected this camera to be more “entry” than the Z50, but personally, I welcome the simplification since I personally never used the “Scene” mode anyway. My main modes are M, A, S, then U1 and U2 for stored settings.
Screen
The flip out screen on the Z30 does not interfere with tripods
The flip down screen on the Z50 is blocked by a mounted tripod
Many people lambasted the screen on the Z50 for its odd movement downwards compared to a normal flip out screen.
In my own usage, unless you used a workaround where you had the Smallrig bottom plate to mount the tripod on the side, you will never be able to see yourself when the camera is mounted on a tripod.
The Z30 has a proper flip out screen where the tripod does not interfere with its usage. Content creators using the screen to check your own framing when shooting yourself will welcome this new screen for sure.
Flash
There is no flash on the Z30.
Personally, I use the flash on the Z50 for a few things.
I will use it for fill flash or to illuminate my subject at night when there is no other light source and I really just need a photo.
I also use it to control my manual flashes for casual product photography.
You’ll need a separate flash or controller for the Z30.
Video recording
A red tally light in front of the Z30 showing that it is recording
Additionally, a green led on the back of Z30 showing that it is recording
A green led on the back bottom right of Z50 showing that it is recording
For Youtubers and solo content creators in general, the Z30 has a small but useful quality of life improvement. There is now a red tally light telling you when the camera is recording. It definitely saves time since I no longer have to go around the camera to double check the screen to see if I have pressed the recording button.
Battery compartment
Z30 battery compartment
Z50 battery compartment
Both the Z30 and the Z50 have battery compartments shared with the SD card slot. This is annoying, especially with the Z50 since I sometimes use the bottom plate to solve the screen blocking issue I mentioned just now.
Both use the same small battery (EN-EL25) and charger. According to official CIPA ratings, Z30 offers 330 shots compared to the 320 shots on the Z50. The difference is minor and I feel battery life depends on your usage of the camera anyway.
Charging and ports
Z30 on top, Z50 on bottom
Z30 on left, Z50 on right
Improvements on charging have been made to the Z30 compared to the Z50.
While the Z50 could already be charged via the Micro USB port on the left of the camera, the Z30 can now be used as well when being charged by an external battery pack or outlet.
Another change I appreciate is that charging can be done via USB C, meaning we can now share out smartphone chargers with the camera.
One similarity is that both cameras will have a small red LED on the left to indicate that the camera is being charged when you plug in a power source.
To me, charging via USB C is a big improvement since there is one less cable/ charger for me to bring when travelling.
Image quality
I will not go into details here since both cameras use similar sensors and you will be far better served on the big camera review websites like DPReview for image quality tests.
I will say, however, both perform well enough for me during my travels and my light assignments (no dark conditions).
Pricing in Singapore
Currently, on Carousell (a platform for selling used items), both cameras are priced about the same at SG$850 for a body and kit lens set in 2023.
Officially, the Z50 should be the more expensive camera but it is also older, so you might get better deals used.
Conclusion
Which should you buy then?
If you’re buying new, unless you really need the flash or viewfinder, get the Z30.
If you’re able to find both on the used market, I would lean towards whichever camera offers greater cost savings since they both have advantages over the other, Z50 for the viewfinder and the flash, Z30 for the USB C charging and better flip-out screen or if you are looking for a particular feature.
Personally, if I can sell my Z50 and get a Z30 for the same or lower price, I’ll pull the trigger.
July 17, 2025
Nikon Z50 field review (short term)
The Nikon Z50 was released in November 2019, about 1 year after the initial release of the full frame mirrorless cameras Z6 and Z7.
Initially, upon the spec leaks, many Nikon fans groaned at the lacklustre specs, at that time, an APS-C sensor that was already in use for several years in the D500, no dual card slots, no AF joystick, no in-body image stabilization (IBIS). Many were already calling the Nikon Z50 a failure even before it was released.
Now, coming on 2 years after the release, I was able to get a used set in near mint condition and put it through it’s paces. I have been shooting with Nikon ever since I started on my photography journey more than 10 years ago, and have gone through a slew of consumer and pro grade DSLRs in my quest to find value for money cameras that will serve me well in my work.
Here are my thoughts on the Z50 from both a work and casual usage viewpoint.
Revision: As I am writing this article, the Nikon Zfc has just been released. To some extent, some of the comments here also apply to the Zfc since the two cameras largely share the same specs such as sensor, viewfinder, single card slot and battery (EN-EN25) etc.
The Nikon Z50’s Ergonomics
Weight
The first thing that struck me when I picked up the camera was the weight. One of the original arguments for choosing mirrorless over a DSLR was that mirrorless cameras are lighter. Definitely the case here.
The Z50 weighs 450g. It’s a small, compact, lightweight camera that one can throw into a small bag and carry around with no issues, assuming you pair it with the kit lens or a small third party lens like the Meike 25mm 1.8 prime.
Grip
The small body matches a small prime like the Meike 25mm perfectly
The body practically disappears on a large telephoto lens
Usually, cameras that are built to be as small as possible may sacrifice grip comfort to minimise weight, the old Olympus EP-Minis come to mind.
Here, I feel that the grip is sufficient for small to medium lenses mounted on the camera. The sculpted grip still allows enough finger room for small and medium sized hands.
Nevertheless, people with large hands might feel this camera is a little cramped, with your pinky hanging out while gripping the camera.
If you need more vertical room, you may want to invest in a Smallrig L plate, which adds grip room as well as additional tripod mounting options to even allow side mounting for your to see the screen even with a tripod.
As you can see from the pictures above, the body is tiny on any of the larger telephoto lenses, like the older version of the 300mm f/4 that I have here.
I would definitely advise holding the combination by the lens rather than the body so as not to stress the mount. It’s unlikely that the lens mount will break or snap, but better safe than sorry yeah?
Battery | Memory card slot
The battery used here is a new EN-EL25. The battery doesn’t last as long as the EN-EL15 used in the bigger brothers Z6/Z7. Luckily, the Z50 is able to charge the battery using the micro USB port on the side and attaching a power bank.
Charging can therefore be done in camera as well as using the external charger (provided). When charging using a power bank, there will be a small red LED lighting up to let you know that charging is on.
Charging using a generic power bank using micro USB port.
Unfortunately, the single memory card slot can only accept UHS-I SD cards. While these cards are generally cheaper, they are also slower.
For my purposes, I have yet to encounter any issues with transfer speed. I would imagine someone who does a lot of burst shots needing a faster card, however.
Top dial
The top dial will be familiar with anyone who has used a consumer grade Nikon DSLR. That’s not to say this is bad.
The consumer grade dial comes with the U1 and U2 memory bank functions, which I personally prefer over the menu bank system in the older pro grade bodies.
Maybe it’s a user issue, but hey, I find this system easier to use, save the settings to either U1 or U2, and once you switch to that setting, presto, all your settings are there. I usually leave U1 for low light settings without flash, and U2 for flash settings indoors when I am covering events.
Back buttons | Screen | Viewfinder
The back of the screen is dominated by the LCD panel which only flips down and up, but not to the side like quite a few other brands.
I’m not sure why Nikon has designed it as such but I would personally prefer a full articulated screen for ease of use, especially when using the screen in a vertical manner (I’ve previously tried this with the D5100, which I found extremely convenient).
The touch screen zoom and display buttons are an interesting implementation, some people would have preferred physical buttons since you can actually feel them, especially with gloved hands.
In Singapore, with tropical, warm weather, this is not an issue for me. Luckily, the centre “OK” button still works as a one button zoom during playback.
One thing about the Z50 is that most of the back panel functions can be accessed with your right hand, so if you’re someone who likes to operate the camera one handed, you can do it here.
The viewfinder is large enough, sharp and has a decent refresh rate. In photo mode, I never had an issue looking through the viewfinder to frame my image, even for wildlife photography.
In video mode, however, there is a slight lag when looking through the viewfinder which I found reflects your settings in video. Personally, I am not a fan of this but there may be some people who like working like this.
Flash
The in-built flash on the Z50 is tiny. Unfortunately, its power is lacking for all but the closest subjects. Using it for fill is fine, but don’t expect it to light up subjects if they are standing more than 1m away, especially at ISO 100.
Using the flash in conjunction with a higher ISO will yield better results at night if you simply want to see your subjects (eg. you are taking a holiday shot at night and want to see someone’s face).
Still, having the flash means you have a means of controlling external flashes remotely if you so desire. I personally use the in-built flash in manual mode and then control my two manual flashes using S1 receiver mode.
Image Quality on the Nikon Z50’s 20.9MP sensor
Resolution
Female scarlet backed flowerpecker
Officially, the Nikon Z50 has 20.9MP of resultion. I was able to crop in to the image to focus more on the flowerpecker here.
In Lightroom, I was still able to see individual feathers and tons of detail despite already cropping in. I believe there are no issues with resolution for normal purposes (like posting for social media) though I imagine you may be able to get better results with wildlife photography if the resolution were to be higher.
For wildlife though, I use a 300mm lens paired with a 1.4x teleconverter (pictured earlier) on this crop-sensored body to get a 630mm equivalent (300 x 1.4 x 1.5) field of view.
Shot using the Z50 with the Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4
Shot using the Z50 with the Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4
Base ISO Image Quality
At base ISO, as seen from the image above, shots are clean and detail, again, no issues. I would definitely be able to get good shots for both my own projects and for clients at base ISO, since I’ve not had the need for 45 MP pictures (at least not had the request from clients yet).
Shadows are extremely clean, and there is a lot of detail in the raw photo for a 20MP image.
High ISO
Shot at ISO 6400
Taking pictures in low light is an issue with the kit lens due to the small max aperture of f/6.3. However, as stated by DPReview, this 20.9 MP sensor from Nikon is potentially a tried and proven sensor (used in the D500 and the D7500) with very good dynamic range and low light performance.
Using it at up to ISO 6400 is definitely not an issue. Thankfully, one does not need full frame just to shoot useable images at ISO 6400 these days 🙂
From the sample shot here, despite being shot at ISO 6400, I noticed very little banding or color noise in the shadows. Highlight recovery was possible as well, I was able to pull the highlight slider to -82 in Lightroom to recover detail from the overexposed areas (in the lit areas in the apartment blocks).
The only issue is that as the image is quite grainy, some noise reduction will need to be applied depending on your personal preference.
Autofocus
Single AF
Female scarlet backed flowerpecker below it’s nest (top left)
In single AF mode, you can control the specific point to focus on. In this case, this was the best setting for a small birding hiding in the middle of foliage. The single point AF was reasonable quick and accurate.
Continuous AF
This is very lens dependent, but using a pro grade 2.8 zoom lens will help a lot with the speed of continuous AF. Using the accompanying kit lens is a hit and miss affair.
In good light, even the kit lens will give you good results, with fast, accurate continuous AF assuming that you are landing the AF point on an area of contrast (basically not a plain white wall). In low light, the small f/6.3 may be affecting the speed of focus to some extent.
More testing will be doing when I bring this lens out for a birding trip, keep a look out for that!
Video
I primarily use the camera for casual photography, but from my light usage regarding video, I realised that the video specs are largely the same as the Z6, of course without the full frame sensor.
Another issue would be the lack of raw video output over HDMI and also no 10-bit footage when recording using an external recorder like the Atomos.
My experience with the Flat profile in video is pretty good. The footage grades quite easily in Da Vinci Resolve and offers decent results.
Using adapted lenses with the FTZ Adaptor
I have mixed feelings using the Z50 with F mount lenses using the FTZ adaptor. I’m glad that the adaptor allows me to use all my F mount AF-S lenses, no issues at all.
Third party lenses work fine on the FTZ adaptor. Lenses with a built in motor, basically those that used to work on the D5xxx series of cameras, will work. For example, my beloved Sigma Art 35mm f/1.4 works just fine.
Your mileage may vary depending on the age and whether the third party lens has a built in motor.
Conclusion
So, do I regret the purchase after 2 months?
No.
Why I like the Nikon Z50
I enjoyed the small size of the camera, especially since I also have a small, third party, manual Meike 25mm f/1.8 prime lens. The entire kit can basically fit in a small camera bag and weighs less than my 300mm f/4 telephoto prime.
The single point autofocus is definitely snappy and accurate, especially when using higher grade lenses with better AF systems such as the 2.8 zooms and of course the native Z mount lenses.
I also enjoy the ability to autofocus quickly in video, plus there is no additional crop on top of the existing crop from the sensor size compared to the Nikon D7500 and the D500. Hence, feel free to shoot wide angle footage in 4K using the kit lens (not possible in the two aforementioned DSLRs)
Cons of the camera
My issues were regarding ergonomics. Coming from the Z6, I was used to the large grip and had some trouble with pressing some buttons sometimes, especially since I much prefer using back button autofocus.
Another issue is with the zoom buttons and the back panel display switch being touch buttons on the LCD itself. I would much prefer physical buttons, especially if I happen to be wearing gloves.
My final beef was that there is no sensor based stabilisation in the APS-C bodies. After getting used to it in the Z6, dealing with shaky images in the viewfinder was not very pleasant with unstabilised lenses (most of my lenses are unstabilised, F mount lenses).
Still, the Z50 serves it’s purposes, as a reliable, second camera in case I need a backup for my Z6 during paid shoots. The smaller sensor also helps me when I’m out shooting wildlife.
Finally, having a camera using SD card as storage is good for me if i ever travel again (after this entire Covid situation is over) since I can get SD cards quite easily if I need one in a pinch.
If you’re able to get one used for a good price, take note of some of the issues here, but rest assured this camera is still a capable one that offers the user a lot of features for the price.
If you’re looking to improve the ergonomics of the Z50, check out this grip by Smallrig.
Also, check out my comparison of the Z50 and the Z30.
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July 17, 2025
Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4D review on a Nikon Z mount camera
The Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4D has been released almost 20 years ago. It has compatibility with both new and old cameras, with it’s AF-S motor but still retaining the aperture ring (pictured). As mentioned in the title, it is even compatible with the Z series cameras!
Having used this lens for birding for the past almost 8 years on both the DSLRs and the Mirrorless cameras, I would like to share my thoughts on how the lens performs, focusing on the newer Z cameras like the Nikon Z50 (since it’s performance on the DSLRs has been well documented.)
Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4D aperture ring set at f/32 for use on newer cameras
Image quality (Sharpness)
Being a telephoto prime, despite the smaller f/4 aperture, it remains tack sharp even wide open. Here are some sample images for your reference.
Taken from about 70m away on the Z50 with the 300mm f4D with FTZ
Text on the small poster remains visible when zoomed in, image is sharp
Scarlet Backed Flowerpecker taken with Nikon Z6 I with 1.4x TC and FTZ
Plaintain Squirrel taken with Nikon Z6 I with 1.4x TC and FTZ
Taken with Z50 + 1.4x TC + 300mm f/4D
Taken with Z50 + 1.4x TC + 300mm f/4D
Autofocus Speed
I found the AF speed on the Z6, even with the 1.4x teleconverter (TC), to be reasonably fast. AF on the Z50 is more hit and miss, with more hunting based on my personal experience. Using the lens without a TC on the Z50 is recommended in my opinion.
In general, AF on the Z6 is better with or without a TC as compared to the Z50.
I have not comprehensively tested the tracking but in my general use I don’t have issues on the Z6 when tracking birds in flight across the sky or plain background.
I would love to hear comments on lens performance in work related usage like in sporting events.
Another point is that AF-S motor are generally faster than the stepping motors in the Z series lenses but have a stuttery feel to them. Stepping motors in comparison feel smoother (I’m comparing the 300mm f/4 against the Z50 or Z6 kit lens ). This point might be important to videographers looking to do AF during video shooting.
Ergonomics
Buttons on the lens
The Autofocus and manual focus switch and the AF limiter
The lens has 2 main switches, the AF/MF switch and the AF limiter.
Personally, I leave the AF switch on Autofocus and use it as such. We can override the focus anytime by turning the AF ring anyway.
For the limiter switch, depending on the situation, I may choose to limit the AF range to reduce hunting. Example, when I am certain that the wildlife is going to be far away, I’ll leave it at infinity to 3m.
Otherwise, I might use the full range, especially when the birds are tamer and I can get close (like the bird shot with fruit in its mouth)
With the FTZ adaptor
The lens is a little unwieldy with body the 1.4x TC and the FTX adaptor on both the Z50 and the Z6.
With the FTX adaptor alone, however, the combination feels solid with no rattling.
One potential issue is the balance of the lens compared to the lighter body of the Z series. With DSLRs, the long lens is counterbalanced by the weight of the body. With the mirrorless bodies, the 300mm f4 D combo becomes front heavy, especially since you need to use it with the FTZ adaptor which exacerbates the issue.
the combination becomes longer and more unwieldy with the additional TC, but still manageable
Vibration Reduction (VR) / in body stabilisation on the Z6
One of the “weaknesses” of the AFS 300mm f/4D was the lack of in lens VR. This was addressed in the PF version of the lens, but in Singapore, the price difference is about 3x (!). I was thrilled to use the older lens on the Z6 with its in-body stabilisation.
During framing, gone are the micro jitters in the viewfinder due to the long focal length (and my habit of drinking too much coffee). Shots of 1/160s with the 300mm f4 and Z6 combo are possible.
Sadly, there are no DX cameras in the Z line up with in body stabilisation, so I would still recommend using a monopod when using the lens on the Z50 or any of the DX bodies in 2023. I’m hoping Nikon will release a DX camera with in body stabilisation.
Conclusion
In Singapore, you can get the AF-S 300mm f/4D lens for about SG$450-500 (not the white version, the black version).
The Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4 D is a sharp, fast focusing lens.
In combination with the FX bodies with their in body stabilisation, this makes for a value for money birding combo, especially if you score a cheap full frame Z series camera as well pre-loved.
This is still my go-to combo for casual birding, highly recommended as second hand buy!
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July 17, 2025
Nikon Z50 Smallrig grip extension review
When I first purchased my Nikon Z50 2 months ago, I enjoyed the lightweight, compact nature of the camera together with the 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 kit lens as well as the Meike 25mm f/1.8 prime lens.
The Nikon Z50 has a small grip
What I didn’t find particularly nice, however, was how cramped the grip was, especially in comparison with my main camera, the Nikon Z6. Granted, it is unfair to compare the ergonomics of the two cameras, given that they are marketed towards rather different market segments and customers.
Nevertheless, the Nikon Z50 was still a capable camera that could bring very decent capabilities to the fold for Nikon shooters as a backup camera. I approached it as such, and to me, the grip was definitely an issue when I adapted the larger F Mount lenses such as the Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4 (I used the combination for birding as I did want the longer reach that the combi gave me)
Having the grip does feel more comfortable with the heavier f mount lenses on the Z50
Holding the Z50 with 300mm f/4 combination was quite a chore, as I usually gripped the tripod collar of the 300mm lens as I was trekking through the forest.
The grip on the body was far too small for me to comfortably hold it while a heavy lens was mounted. I would imagine the limit to be the Sigma 35mm Art f/1.4 that I also had and would sometimes use as a sharp 50mm on the crop sensored body.
For comparison, the 300mm f/4 weighs about 1.295kg while the Sigma 35mm 1.4 is 665g. The Nikon FTZ Adaptor is 135g.The Z50 alone is 450g.
The balance of the camera and lenses are also dependent on the dimensions of the lenses, which I have not listed here (obviously, the telephoto 300mm will be far more unwieldy because it is much longer).
Why I felt the Smallrig Grip Extension was useful
Herein lies the usefulness of the Smallrig grip extension. While it is by no measure a full battery grip made by Nikon like those for the DSLRs, having that extension really helps when offering more purchase for your hands.
The Smallrig grip feels good and well constructed
The grip itself isn’t too heavy either (about 150-200g). However, it’s relatively light weight belies the metal construction. The grip itself feels sturdy, basically you are adding a metal plate to the bottom and side of the camera.
Side horseshoe mount where you can put a small light or a mic
Additional benefits come in the form of a side horseshoe mount. Potentially, you can now mount your microphone / receiver on the side of the camera if you so choose. You could even mount 2 different things (for example, a light on top and a mic on the side).
Note the screw mount holes in the offset position
The Z50 can be also mounted in a portrait position on a tripod using the grip
Z50 users who use the camera’s downward flipping screen will also appreciate the multitude of quarter screw holes scattered throughout the bottom of the grip.
The Smallrig grip allows the camera to be mounted in an offset position and in portrait orientation if you want to be able to see the screen while mounting it on a tripod. Of course, if you want to mount the camera in the traditional position, feel free to do so.
Users of the Z50 will be able to use the camera on a tripod in an offset position
Usage
Personally, I use the camera with a small table tripod with a ballhead, with a microphone mounted on the side of the camera with the camera mounted offset from the centre so that I can still see myself in the screen. Of course, this is a workaround since people using cameras with articulated LCD screens on their cameras don’t even need to do this to see themselves while filming.
Issues faced
Now, on to the issues I faced when using the grip. The main one would be that the grip basically blocks the battery and memory card compartment of the Nikon Z50. Unless you remove the grip itself, the compartment would be inaccessible.
I would recommend fixing the grip after you have loaded a fresh memory card and battery into the camera and it is ready for use for at least a few hours of shooting. If not, the need to remove the grip in order to swap out the grip and card would be very annoying.
you can see on the right that the battery door is blocked
A neutral point would be that the grip itself is tightened using a screw at the bottom of the plate. Smallrig has kindly included a screw key that is magnetically attached to the bottom of the plate for ease of storage.
One issue I faced was the magnets dropping out of the bottom of the plate as they are stuck to the key itself. This is annoying but can be solved using some resin/ epoxy/ strong adhesive
Conclusion
Nevertheless, for an additional SGD$35, I feel the grip would be a good investment if you ever pick up the Nikon Z50, with the benefits and issues summarised below:
1 the metal grip offers some protection for the bottom and side of your camera against impact
2 the additional purchase afforded to your fingers will go a long way in relieving finger cramps
3 the additional 3/4 screw mounts allow you to mount the camera in various positions in addition to the traditional centre mount (offset, portrait)
4 there is a horsehoe mount on the side of the grip allowing you to mount an additional accessory on the side of the camera
5 the plate blocks the battery and memory card door, make sure you install a fresh card and battery before you fix the grip otherwise it will be annoying when you constantly have to remove and fix the grip again.
As of 2025, it has been discontinued on the Smallrig official website, but used options are there
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July 17, 2025
Nikon D300s Review in 2021, a dozen years later
The Nikon D300s was the minor refresh of the the excellent D300 that was the APS-C younger sibling of the full frame Nikon D3, a game changer back then due to the powerhouse specs that gave sports photographers worldwide an incredible camera that spits out full frame images at 9FPS or 11FPS in DX crop.
The D300s increased the FPS to 7, while still keeping the 9FPS that can be had with the optional MBD-10 battery grip with the bigger battery from the D3 (more on that later).
Ergonomics
The professional grade DSLRs from Nikon has always had the shutter release mode dial and the dial for choosing white balance, file quality and ISO on the top left of the camera.
While it does not allow for one handed use of the DSLR, it does make it very clearly marked and easy to operate using gloves since you know the controls are all there.
The MBD-10 grip makes handling even more beefy. The camera is a beast of a machine and the grip makes it even more so. Once you use the grip, even large lenses balance very well in hand. Also, the build quality is incredible, it’s extremely solid and once properly screwed in feels just like a part of the original camera.
Compare that to the handling of a smartphone…. let’s just say the purpose of a smartphone is to get you that picture as fast as possible, with no thought regarding the haptics and tactile feeling of a proper camera.
Image quality
Raw files from the D300s do not handle pushing in processing, note the noise on the right.
The sensor churns out 12MP photos. The raw files are easy to edit on Lightroom on a modern computer as they load fast. Unfortunately, as this was before the era of Nikon sensors with incredible dynamic range, when you try to expose for the highlights, the shadow areas of the image will have noise after you try to perform recovery of the shadows. I would not recommend pushing the Lightroom slider for shadow beyond 50, even at low ISOs.
In the shot above, I was trying to get a shot of the sunset and exposed for the highlights. As you can see from the original raw file, the shadows are extremely dark. After I tried pushing the shadows, color noise was extremely apparent.
For those shooting with modern sensors in cameras such as the D800 and the Z7, such shadow noise will be much more limited (Z6 shot shown below for comparison).
Less noise in the Nikon Z6 shot, but there is banding in the shadows
In terms of overall image quality though, the images are more than sufficient for upload to social media. I was using the camera for casual birding, which, given that it was originally a sport focused camera, would be something up it’s alley.
Noise apparent on the uniform areas
From this image, you can see the luminance noise which makes the photo look grainy. I had to apply noise reduction to the breast area of the bird after brightening it to show the colors. Otherwise, I have no issues with sharing this photo on social media.
Battery Life
Nothing much to say here, except that the battery is more than enough for a full day of shooting. I would go as far as to say you can bring 2 fully charged EN-EL3 batteries for a short trip and you can leave the charger at home. Maybe about 1000+ shots per battery without shooting video?
Can the D300s shoot video?
Yes, the camera shoots videos.
Does it do it well, no. Use your smartphone 🙂
In a birding situation, I would use it to grab some videos if I am trying to use a telephoto lens mounted on the camera though.
Value for money in 2021
So here’s the deal, if you can find a good condition unit that has not been abused for under SGD$200, I would say go for one, especially if you desire the haptics of a professional grade camera. Image wise, don’t expect to push the raw files as you would in a modern camera.
A used Nikon D300s can be bought for S$200 or less
In some situations, even a smartphone made after 2018, especially flagship phones from Apple or Android, will deliver better image quality especially in good light. In bad light, even a Google Pixel will deliver better performance under situations where the subject is not moving.
Conclusion: Should you get a Nikon D300s in 2021 and beyond?
For Beginners, buy for the shooting experience, or if you want a cheap and still capable camera for casual bird/sports photography. If you need good image quality in low light, look elsewhere for the money.
If you are interested in looking at the older models for fun, here’s the D100 and the D200 reviews for your reading pleasure.
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July 17, 2025
Nikon D200 throwback review, 15 years later in 2021
The Nikon D200 was released in 2005, back when digital photography was still in it’s nascent stages and film was still reigning. The professional grade D1, D1X and D1H have already been released on the Nikon roster alongside the Nikon F5 (film pro grade body).
According to DPRreview, the D100 (my thoughts on the D100 here) started a new camera segment in the under $2000 USD range, and was a game changer as it made enthusiast grade DSLRs approachable for professionals and enthusiasts alike. The D200 looked to continue that trend.
Now, in 2021, about 15 years after it’s entry into the market, I wanted to revisit it to see how the camera has aged over the years. I’m certainly not going to change my primary camera (Nikon Z6 Mark I) to the D200, but it would be an interesting look at how far camera tech advances have progressed since the early 2000s.
Ergonomics of the D200
In hand, the grip immediately feels familiar to anyone who has used a Nikon DSLR in the last 10 years. Instead of the straight, film camera like grip from the D100, we now have the curved grip. Looking at the camera as a whole, it definitely looks as though the D200 would set the tone for the rest of the its descendants to come.
The camera is weighty, but I would describe it as a reassuring heft rather than simply heavy. The entire chassis inspires confidence, though people who have since moved on to mirrorless, like me, will feel the additional weight after a few hours.
The D200’s top left dial
A very familiar dial with all Nikon shooters
The now familiar top left dial used commonly in pro grade Nikon DSLRs is used in the D200, as compared to the older dial format used in the D100. Having shot tens of thousands of shots with Nikon Pro grade bodies from D3 onwards, my muscle memory did not fail me and I was able to use the D200 quite smoothly to change my settings.
The Back LCD
A bigger LCD panel compared to the D100, but still lacking by modern standards
The bigger rear LCD panel is a welcome change compared to the tiny one on the D100. I could comfortably check my shots on the panel. Color accuracy and portrayal was also no longer an issue. The only complaint I had was that the panel itself wasn’t very high resolution. Trying to zoom in to check critical sharpness was not useful. The display size and resolution upgrade came eventually in the D300.
Top LCD
The top LCD panel is quite large
The top LCD panels show the shooting information such as ISO, shutter speed and aperture settings, as well as the number of shots remaining if you need it. The large panel is welcome since all the information is laid out clearly and easy to see.
Menus
The familiar custom menus have appeared here, and most modern Nikon users will be right at home using these menus, a massive upgrade from the archaic menus in the D100. There are quite a few custom functions to be used here as well, controlling the AF system, the playback and shooting as well.
Buttons
You may have noticed already, but the 2 button card formatting short cut had already been implemented in the D200 (one of the buttons is the mode button as shown in the picture above, with the red text beside it).
This is definitely one of the functions in Nikon DSLRs that I personally found useful, since it allows me to quickly format and prepare my storage cards before a shoot instead of going through a series of menus to do so. The current batch of mirrorless cameras do not have this shortcut (i mapped it to function buttons myself.)
Note the AF control and the card release lever
On the back of the D200, 2 important levers stand out. The lever controlling the release of the CF card slot and other controlling the AF system, whether it be single AF point or the very intuitive group AF point detection, which I found in practice to be rather accurate for tracking large subjects.
Card slot
1 CF card slot, but the slot is weather sealed
The card slot remains a single CF card slot, but the position has now been shifted to the now familiar right side of the camera, with the release button there as well. The slot is opened from the lever at the back, visible in the top left of the picture.
There is built in weather sealing, with rubber gaskets around the card slot to prevent or slow entry of water.
Sensor/ Image quality on the Nikon D200
Color edits added, but the original image wasn’t bad to begin with
As I mentioned in the D100, sensor tech has advanced rapidly over the years. A sensor from 15 years ago, even one that is of APS-C size, can barely keep up even with smartphone cameras, especially those from high end phones such as iPhone Maxes and the Samsung S20s with optimised software and hardware.
With a decent prime lens like the Nikon AF-S 50mm 1.4G, however, one can still get some pretty good pictures that are sufficient for small prints and smartphone screens.
Resolution
The D200 sensor offers only about 10.2MP, nothing much to shout about now, but back in 2005 this was pretty much state of the art. At this MP count, one can expect to print images of 13 by 9 inches ( 1inch = 2.54 cm) at 300ppi. This means we could print A4 sizes comfortably.
Image quality comparisons
During shooting, I noticed that the ISO options in the D200 are leaning more towards the exposing brighter situations compared to the D100, given that the base ISO has been reduced to 100 instead of 200 and the maximum ISO (Hi-1) is now only 3200 instead of the D6400 in the D100.
Both images shot at 50mm, f5.6. Left image is at ISO100, right image is at Hi1 (3200)
At base ISO up to ISO 400, I would have no issues with image quality. After 800, though, the grain starts becoming more prominent. At Hi 1 (ISO 3200), the image is extremely grainy and there is reddish/ purple color noise in the dark areas. As you can see from the comparison above, there is a yellowish/reddish tinge to the image shot at ISO 3200.
I won’t say the image is rubbish, but if you zoom in, the image falls apart.
Dynamic Range
Raw image shot at ISO 125, adjusted in Lightroom
The image above was adjusted in Lightroom and had shadows boosted and highlights recovered. Apologies for the lacklustre sunset image but I was more interested in testing the sensor of the camera. Shooting in raw at base ISOs yield very decent image quality with good dynamic range. Definitely useable even by 2021 standards.
The D200’s Autofocus
Nikon Multi-CAM 1000
The D200 uses the 11 point Multi cam 1000 which was later used for more than a decade even until the D3500. Whether Nikon made improvements on the module over the years remains to be seen, the AF system worked reasonable well during the tests, albeit on relatively non challenging subjects such as slow moving animals.
Single point speed
Using the camera in single point was fast and snappy, but of course, the AF speed also depends largely on the lens being used. Third party lenses with weaker AF motors will naturally be slower, while the pro grade 2.8 zooms will be blazing fast.
Tracking
Custom menus have been added, here it shows group dynamic AF control
When the camera is set to continuous focus mode, using the AF mode dial at the back set at group AF, I was able to achieve reasonably fast tracking speeds using the Nikon 24-70 2.8 zoom.
Video
Similar to the D100, this generation of Nikon Dxxx series has yet to implement a video taking mode. Naturally, you can take “videos” by building a time lapse from the photos shot on the D200, if you consider that videography 😉
Concluding thoughts
Image quality is objectively decent but lacking somewhat in 2021
The jump from D100 to D200 was staggering. The D200 felt familiar in so many ways, from the custom menu layouts to the dials and button placements. The top left dial last all the way even til the D850, one of the most advanced DSLRs ever made (at least as of 2021). The button placements at the back and the AF switch remained at the locations introduced in the D200. The AF module was used all the way until the present, in the entry level bodies.
Ergonomics and useability wise, there were very few complaints from me in the D200.
Image quality was an issue, however. The age of the sensor is showing, and the lack of megapixels is an issue in the age of 4k displays in TVs, monitors and smartphones. At base ISO, shooting raw files, one is still able to recover some highlights and shadows. Above ISO 1600, however image quality starts to fall apart.
Would I recommend anyone buy a used D200?
Even if you’re yearning for nostalgia, to be honest, there’s better value to be had in getting a used D300 over this. The older sensor, relatively weak AF system and the pricing of the D300 (in Singapore, you can get a beater set for under SG$150) means that the D200 has well and truly been rendered obsolete.
Collectors, of course, would buy it just for the sake of getting one. Otherwise, your money is better spent elsewhere.
For more content, you can read about my thoughts on the D100 and the D300s too 🙂
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July 17, 2025
Nikon D100 Review in 2021, after 20 years
The Nikon D100 was released in 2001, back when digital photography was still in it’s nascent stages and film was still reigning. The professional grade D1, D1X and D1H have already been released on the Nikon roster alongside the Nikon F5 (film pro grade body).
According to DPReview, the D100 started a new camera segment in the under $2000 USD range, and was potentially a game changer as it made enthusiast grade DSLRs even more approachable for professionals and enthusiasts alike.
Now, in 2021, 20 years after it’s entry into the market, I would like to revisit it to see how the camera has aged over the years. Coming on the back of a Nikon Z6 (my primary camera), I am under no illusion that the D100 can compete, but it would be an interesting look to see how the digital photographer technology has progressed over the years and see what has changed.
The D100’s Ergonomics
Grip
One thing that has made improvements over the years is definitely grip design. When I first held the D100, I noticed that the grip felt distinctly different from what I was used to. It wasn’t as rounded as the D3 and not as good a fit as the D750. However, I would say that the grip still allowed me to carry the Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4 with no major issues.
Top LCD
One piece of technology that did not change for about 17 years (until the Z6) was the top plate LCD. Seems like the same type of LCD panel was used to display shooting information all the way until the OLED was used in the Z6 mirrorless bodies.
On the other hand, as we only need to see the essential shooting information, the fact that it’s there at all was already very good for my shooting experience.
Back LCD
One thing that struck me, as in REALLY hit me, was the size of the LCD. Being used to modern smartphones and tablets with their humongous, high resolution screens really made the viewing experience of the LCD on the D100 a chore.
It was very hard to verify focus with the small, 1.8 inch screen when I’m trying to zoom in, and the dynamic range of the screen is so poor that I can’t be sure that I have exposed the shot properly.
Still, looking at it from the 2001 perspective, it definitely one ups film cameras in that you can at least verify the rough exposure and composition of the picture you took as compared to a film camera.
Menus
When I opened the menus for the first time, I was speechless. This odd sense of nostalgia hit me as I was transported momentarily back to the early days of Windows 98 and Windows 2000, playing my Nintendo Gameboy and watching TV on those fat cathode ray TVs.
The menus have gone through a huge change over the years, with UI/UX improving leaps and bounds. Still, the simple/spartan menus made it easy to navigate camera functions.
Buttons
Throughout the years, Nikon has had a bad habit of moving the button layout from generation to generation. Imagine my chagrin, then at having to relearn the button presses for quite a few functions.
Firstly, the image review button is not a “play” arrow, but rather that monitor like display button at the top left of the camera. To magnify the image during review, you have to first press enter at the bottom to select the image, then press the middle button in conjunction with the rear dial in order to punch in.
Way too many button presses in my opinion, I’m so glad they improved on this in their next iteration of the 3 digit DSLRs.
Card Slot
This was the era of small CF cards, and back then, using digital storage was already a big deal, let alone dual card slots. The card slot door is locked by a catch on the side, simply pull open the door, no button presses required. Removing the card requires the small rectangular button to be pressed, however.
Sensor/ Image quality on the D100
Time has not been kind to sensor tech. A sensor from 20 years ago can barely keep up even with smartphone cameras, especially those from high end phones such as iPhone Maxes and the Samsung S20s.
With a decent prime lens like the Nikon AF-S 50mm 1.4G, one can still get some pretty good pictures that are sufficient for small prints and smartphone screens.
Taken in the late afternoon in good light. Color was edited in post.
Informal image quality tests
I took a few shots in night with the camera locked off on a tripod. All images were shot at f/4 on a Nikon AF-S 50mm 1.4G for better lens sharpness.
Base ISO 200
At base ISO, if you pixel peep, you can already see luminance noise/ grainyness. However, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. The image is definitely useable at base ISO.
ISO 1600
Excuse the ghosting. ISO 1600 is noisy but I would say is useable in very low requirement scenarios like viewing on a small screen or for small prints.
ISO H1(3200)
Banding in the shadows and color noise appearing as well. Modern cameras have no problem handling ISO3200 but this is 2001 tech after all.
ISO H2 (6400)
Severe banding in the shadows as well as color noise everywhere, basically, H2 is for emergencies when you just need the shot regardless of the image quality.
Dynamic range
I was able to get detail from the shadow areas of the image by pushing the shadow slider in Lightroom CC to about +66. I could also recover some highlight detail from the sky by lowering the highlight slider to about -15. The image was shot at base ISO of 200. Not a bad performance from a 20 year old camera, for sure. However, modern sensors, especially the Sony made 24 MP ones, will blow this out of the water.
Resolution
The shot of the collared kingfisher is uncropped, but to be honest, at 6MP, there wasn’t much room for cropping anyway. I’m using a 28 inch 4k monitor and the image barely fills up the entire display. Nevertheless, I personally found the quality of the image acceptable, despite the lack of resolution.
sample shot
Autofocus system
Copyright @Mir D100 Article
The D100 uses one of the first generations of AF systems developed by Nikon. The 5 point AF system worked well for it’s time, with decent single AF speed and could even track moving subjects in relatively simple scenarios.
AF Tracking
I was able to track a bird in flight using the 5 point autofocus system. Granted, it was taken against a cloudless sky with extremely high contrast, so I wouldn’t say that the AF system was pushed here to any extent. While we have been spoilt silly by the newest AF systems with more than 200 AF points, the 5 point system here worked to get the pigeon in focus.
Single point speed
I was able to grab a shot of the pigeon flying in over the water using single focus. I was using the centre point of the system but the speed was still good enough for me to get the pigeon sharp. Any blur was due to motion blur as I did not prepare for the pigeon to suddenly swoop in and was using a relatively slow shutter speed of 1/400s.
Video
Nothing to see here, you can take “videos” by building a time lapse from the photos shot on the D100, that’s all 😉
Concluding thoughts
This has not been a traditional review.
No one in their right mind would recommend someone to buy a 20 year old camera to shoot professionally. In many cases, even your smartphone may be better than what the D100 can offer in terms of image quality.
Still, this has been an interesting look at how technology has progressed in the digital photography realm. I’m definitely thankful to be loaned this unit by a friend who collects old cameras and keeps them in working condition.
I’ll be looking at it’s next iteration, the Nikon D200 in the next review. if you’ve enjoyed this blast from the past look , keep a look out for the next review.
Until next time.
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July 17, 2025
Buying used, “Outdated” full frame DSLR cameras (updated 2025)
A mint condition Nikon D700, image courtesy of Wikipedia Commons
*This article was originally posted in 2014, but updated in 2025 to reflect some newer cameras.
Sensor technology is advancing at breakneck speeds. High ISO performance is improving so fast that stratospheric speeds previously unheard of are now reality (it goes into the millions now!).
But really; do people really need such high sensitivities? Professionals might, but for consumers, ISO 6400 is plenty for most shooting conditions, especially when using prime lenses.
This is where buying older full frame DSLRs come in for photography buffs looking to get the full frame look (smoother out of focus transition, if you have no idea what this is, you probably won’t care about it).
Full Frame DSLR Developments
With the recent surge of full frame bodies available from Canikon, including the so called consumer typed full frame bodies, there are 15 bodies from 2007 til now. Canon1D-X, 1Ds III, 5D MK III, 5D MK II, 5D MK I, 6D, Nikon D4s, Nikon D4, Nikon D3x, D3S, D3, D810, D800, D 700, D610, D600.
In the last 10 years after 2014, almost every camera manufacturer has stepped up in their camera offerings for full frame cameras on both DSLRs and Mirrorless Cameras. I focus on DSLRs here since they are “older”.
There are now sufficient full frame bodies, both new and pre-loved, to satisfy almost every photographic niche.
So, what would be a good choice for you to step into the full frame world?
System choice aside, stick with something you are familiar with. Most importantly, get something you are comfortable with lugging about on shoots. Any of the cameras above will do the job for many situations that people face, though some will do better than others in specific situations.
Personal Experience Using an Older Camera
Personally, I bought the Nikon D3 sometime in 2013, and I have never been let down by it, except in the most challenging of situations (think near darkness where even your naked eyes have trouble discerning anything).
I can say that using a D3 released me from any perceived limitations, any shot missed is truly my own fault. The speed and capabilities of the flagship body is such that the camera takes the shot at the slightest of touches and reacts as fast as you can.
The D3’s soul was carried on by other cameras since then, and the closest replacement camera I have now is the D500 (used), but that is a story for another day.
Take note that with the accompanying large sensor size, compatible lenses will necessarily be large and heavy. Barring technological advancement, this is how it will be for the coming few years ahead. Hence, think about what you intend to shoot. Will it be fast paced sports, portraits, landscapes?
2 Common Used DSLRs People Recommend
I will be listing 2 of the original “old but accessible” full frame cameras under several general shooting categories for the uninitiated.
The Nikon D700 and Canon 5D Mark II remain capable, somewhat fun cameras to use at a budget for budding photographers looking for something cheap, durable but very much still capable (even in 2025).
A lightly used Nikon D700 in Singapore can be bought for S$650 or less.
A lightly used Canon 5D mark II can be had for S$375
Of course, each camera can be used for any purpose that you deem fit, the grouping simply makes the choice slightly more “optimised” for that usage.
Here goes:
Landscape: Canon 5D Mark II
The high megapixel count of 21 MP definitely works in the 5DMark II’s favour over its Nikon equivalent (12MP). The relatively poor autofocus is not critical given that your static landscape photo op isn’t exactly going to test the agility of the AF system.
Macro: Canon 5D Mark II
Once more, the high megapixel count will work in its favour. Macro shots favour detail above all, more megapixels should, all things being equal (light availability, for instance), mean more detailed photos. Another big plus for the Canon lies in the form of the MP-E 65mm, a specialty Macro lens that has no equal (to my knowledge) in the Nikon or Sony lens lineup.
Having the MP-E with a 5D Mark II will set you back quite a fair sum, be prepared to feel some pain in the wallet. Of course, if you are on a budget, the 100mm USM Macro will fulfill your purposes just fine.
Sports: Nikon D700
Qualities valued in sports is responsiveness, autofocus speed and high frame rates per second (FPS). Short of going all the way to the former flagship D3, the D700 will be the camera that gives Nikon users all they need for sports. 8 FPS (with grip), 51 point AF system, excellent buffer capacity and superb high ISO performance ensures that the D700 will serve you well in a sports shooting situation.

Street shooting: Nikon D700
Again, qualities to look out for are similar to that of sports. High ISO performance during night shoots (from past experience, the raw file is forgiving at ISOs of up to 3200), responsiveness (instant on, ready to shoot), quick and accurate AF (the Nikon 51 point AF system is still so good), all help with capturing “the Moment”.
Video: Canon 5D Mark II
This is a no brainer. Short of going to Sony Mirrorless bodies, the venerable Canon 5D Mark II was the camera to go to (pre-2010) for video shooting and the one that made HD DSLR Filmmaking mainstream. Excellent bit rate, decent filming ergonomics make the 5D Mark II a superb performer on the video arena.
For people willing to tinker with the camera’s firmware, Magic Lantern has an excellent update for the 5D Mark II that opens up many useful features, and for free as well.
Magic Lantern Liveview Overlay on the 5D Mark II, image from Wikimedia Commons
General shooting: D700
Image Courtesy of Nokton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/nokton/2994927246)
Call me biased here, but I favor the D700 simply due to the very manageable 12 Megapixel files. Quite simply, smaller but still very malleable raw files make it a pleasure to edit the files in either Lightroom, Capture Pro or your raw processor of choice.
Also, don’t forget storage (either on your computer or on the go) is much easier with smaller files. Storage may be cheap, but hey, whatever helps right?
This article may go outdated very quickly, given how fast new full frame models are being thrown out of factories .
Nevertheless, if you are on a budget but still want the full frame look and older high specification performance, older DSLRs are definitely worth a look. If you’re looking for a prime lens to go with your camera, I review the Sigma 85mm 1.4 HSM.
Which one you choose will likely depend on your personal preference and pricing and availability.
PS. Looking for something smaller? I talk about the entry level Nikon D3200 vs the Olympus OMD EM5 here.
July 16, 2025