Frogtography, Used Camera and Lens Reviews

Tag: photography

Lens comparison: Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.4 G vs Nikon Z 50mm f/1.8 S lens
I recently got my hands on a copy of the Nikon Z 50mm f/1.8 S lens (hereby called the 50mm 1.8 S). Having made the transition to Nikon Z series cameras after almost 10 years with the DSLRs, I have been slowly but surely transiting to the Z system, including lenses.
I was curious as to how it compared to my stalwart companion of coming 10 years, the Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.4 G, here called the 50mm 1.4 G. I was able to do some comparisons of the two lenses’ image quality plus anecdotal comparisons of usage experience.
The Nikon Z 50mm f/1.8 Price in Singapore
Listing from camera stores on Carousell, a 2nd hand platform
I was always a fan of getting used gear as I had the confidence in being able to check them before making the purchase. I got my Nikon 50mm G at SGD$400 almost 10 years ago on a used gear forum in Singapore.
Recently, I bought the Nikon Z 50mm 1.8 S at a reasonable price of SGD $450 (a hefty 37% discount from the street price of about $711). While I am looking to offload the G lens (still going strong!) to cover some of the cost of the S lens, readers may wish to look out for a similar deal in your home country and get this lens if you can (spoiler alert!)
Comparing the Weight and Size of the 50mm 1.4G vs the 50mm f/1.8 S
The 50mm G and FTZ combo is about the same size as the 50mm S
The Nikon 50mm S f1.8 weighs 415g, basically the same as the G lens and FTZ combined (G lens at 280g + FTZ at 135g = 415g). One issue that held me back with getting the lens initially was the weight. I was far to accustomed handling the Nikon D750 and 50mm G lens and that was such a compact combo.
However, having shot with the 50mm S on assignment and also during my cruise trip, I must say that the 50mm S balances very well with the Nikon Z6 Mk I and I had no major issues with handling.
Filter thread
filter thread comparison, 58mm for the G lens and 62mm filter thread for the S lens
Unfortunately, upgraders will need to get new filters for the 50mm 1.8 S if you use them. The filter thread is now 62mm instead of the old and somewhat more common(?) 58mm. Not a big issue if you don’t use them at all though.
Image Quality differences between the 50mm G and Z lens
Sharpness and contrast
Centre crop: 50mm f/1.8S on the left | 50mm f/1.4G on the right
Lens optical designs have come a long way. Nikon was not kidding when they said that they designed the S series for professionals. This is a sharp lens.
Above is a centre crop of the images taken with both lenses. In Lightroom, blown up 100%, I can still see individual brick details on the 50mm S. The 50mm 1.4G in comparison, looks like I misfocused (I didn’t, trust me). Both lenses were shot at f/1.8.
Differences in contrast levels between the lenses is also like heaven and earth. The S lens has plenty of “bite” that the G lens simply lacks. In contrast (pun intended), the G lens looks blurry and hazy (like me after drinking too much whisky).
Z mount on the left, F mount on the right.
The corners on the 1.4G lens was a mess, more blurriness and haziness in the corners. Granted, for my use case at f/1.8 or 1.4 on the G lens, I tend to position my subjects in the central area (not dead centre though). I don’t tend to care about corner performance much, but if I had to position my subjects in the corners shooting wide open, I would think twice.
On the other hand, the 50mm S had no issues with corner sharpness whatsoever. Whatever engineering the lens designers had to do to provide this level of image quality on this lens, it was worth it.
Image sharpness is through the roof. In Lightroom, I was able to zoom in 100% and see the individual leaves on the trees, even in the corners. The image will sharpen up as you stop down from 2.8 to 4, but to be honest, I would have no qualms positioning my subject anywhere on the frame.
Fringing issues
200% crop: 50mm G with heavy purple fringing
200% crop: 50mm S with little to no fringing
Fringing is an issue that is quite easily solved for Lightroom users, just tweaking the slider will help with removing the ugly purple fringing that usually pops up at high contrast areas.
The performance from the S lens is stonkingly good, I don’t know what Nikon did when they made the lens or optimised the software in camera for the lens, but I hope they continue it!
Bokeh
Bokeh is always subjective, personally, I don’t mind the bokeh from the lens. Here are some sample shots of random food and drinks for reference.
shot at 1.8
Autofocus
The focus ring is pretty wide, but focus by wire only. There is no AF distance marking (lens has been wrapped with carbon fibre)
Right when it was released, the Nikon 50mm f/1.4G lens was never an award winning design for autofocus speed. Even compared to the original AF-S 50mm f1.8 G, AF speed wasn’t that fast or even slower.
The original D lenses were way faster. Still, in terms of accuracy, I had no issues all these years with my D3, D800 and finally D750, even when I was using the outer AF points. On my Z6, the 50 G and the FTZ combo worked well for sure.
The 50mm f/1.8 S, however, was noticeably faster on my tests and smoother. I suspect that the smoothness is due to the new stepping motor that has been implemented in the Nikon lenses recently. AF wise, this lens is a no brainer for hybrid shooters looking to upgrade. One issue, however, is that the focus ring on the S lens is fly by wire. This is one thing I don’t like.
Call me an old fogey, but sometimes I do prefer to manual focus and in those situations, I would like to have precise control and know that me turning the ring will also move the elements in the lens. Not a dealbreaker, but people getting the lens should definitely take this into consideration.
Should you upgrade from the 50mm 1.4G to the 50mm 1.8 S?
The 50mm 1.4G lens has been a staple of Nikon photographers everywhere, from amateur right up to working professionals. I still remember when the Nikon Z 50mm 1.8S was announced, people were groaning everywhere as soon as they saw the 1.8 maximum aperture.
I remember being somewhat disappointed myself at the announcement, since my perception of “pro-ness” usually meant a big, chunky lens with a large sexy aperture.
Granted, the lens wasn’t that small, but it was a part of the S line prime lenses that were all more or less the same size and design aesthetics, so it looked pretty nice to me and handy too.
When I finally was able to get a copy of my own (I’ve already used a few loaner lenses before), I was quite comfortable with the lens and it’s performance.
I would buy it again if a similar deal came along, would you get one? 🙂
Key points:
Pros
-Somewhat light
-Sharp wide open, shoot with impunity
-Optically outstanding
-Somewhat cheap (better prices for used gear)
Cons
-Not that cheap compared to traditional nifty fifties, especially brand new
-No f/1.4 aperture (in 2024, there is a 1.4 vers!), there is also the massive and expensive f/1.2 lens if you need it
Other articles:
I also do a comparison of the F and Z mount 85mm lenses and review the Z mount 35mm 1.4.
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July 17, 2025
Nikon Z 35mm f1.4 Review. Is it Worth buying?
When Nikon announced the Nikon Z 35mm 1.4 for their mirrorless bodies, I was pleasantly surprised.
First, everything thought that the Nikon Z 35mm 1.2 would be the brighter lens of the 35mm series, after the excellent Nikon Z 35mm 1.8 S, known for its excellent sharpness wide open. Suddenly, we had a relatively affordable Nikon 35mm that was f1.4, even brighter than the S series lens!
Naturally, I wanted to get one to replace my old Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art for the F mount. I have been using that with the FTZ adaptor on my Nikon ZII. There will be a comparison article but it has been a heavy, unwieldy combination.
Having bought one at the recently launch sale at SG$847 (with a free Nikon Creator Branded Hydro Flask as bonus), I was able to get my hands on one copy to try.
Here are my thoughts.
Ergonomics, the Nikon 35mm 1.4 Z in hand
Weight and size
The Z 35mm 1.4 weighs 415g. To me, this makes for a lightweight, well balanced combination with my Nikon Z7II, as shown in the top image. Most Z photographers will find this lens compact and easy to pack at 86.5mm in length (slightly bigger than my clenched fist). This lens balances quite well on the Z mount APSC cameras.
Focusing and control ring
The lens has 2 control rings. The larger one near the front is for focus, while the rear knurled ring is a control ring that you can customise to adjust a few settings.
The three settings, aperture, exposure compensation and ISO are all things that I would want fast control over during a paid shoot. Personally, I set it to either aperture or ISO when I’m shooting manual, and exposure when I’m shooting A or S mode. The control ring is something I enjoy using especially compared to my Nikon Z 50mm f/1.8 S.
The Nikon Z 35mm 1.4 is similar to other Z mount lenses in the use of a silent, stepping motor. Autofocus is smooth during photo and video modes. You can set the AF speed in camera. I find it is fast enough for my paid event work, when I was testing the speed in focusing between near and far subjects.
Nikon 35mm 1.4 Z Filter Size
The front element is small. The lens takes a smallish 62mm filter. While I would have preferred the 67mm since I already have quite a few, if you’re buying new, the 62mm filters are not expensive.
Image Quality from the Nikon 35mm 1.4 Z
Shot on Z 35mm f1.4 at f/1.4, note the vignetting on the corners
Shot on Z 35mm f1.4 100% crop at f/1.4
Shot on Z 35mm f1.4 at f/4.0
Vignetting on the 35mm 1.4Z
In this shot, I was able to clearly see the vignetting in the image at f1.4. Some people might find this to be useful, especially when shooting environmental portraits.
For landscape shooters, this is not a huge problem and lightroom solves it with a single click. To me vignetting is usually not an issue since it is easily fixed in software.
Shot on Z 35mm f1.4 100% crop at f/4.0
Shot on Z 35mm 1.4 at 100% crop, focus on the white counterweight of the crane
Shot at f1.4 on the left, f4 on the right
Here is a side by side shot at 100%. When shooting wide open at f1.4 vs at f4, you can see a large difference in overall contrast and sharpness. Nikon wasn’t kidding with their marketing materials. I noted that Nikon stated that the lens was sharp when stopped down, with no mention about shooting wide open. To my eyes, even the 1.4 is fine.
In a paid shoot, I would have no issues shooting the lens at any aperture. You will only see the difference in a side by side comparison wide open and stopped down to f4 or f5.6.
Shot on Z 35mm f1.4 100% crop at f/1.4, note the chromatic aberration on the white edges of the rooftop on the right
Shot on Z 35mm f1.4 100% crop at f/5.6, there is no more chromatic aberration
Is Chromatic Abberation Present?
Chromatic aberration to me usually is not a huge issue since it can be fixed in lightroom. Wide open, you will see purple fringing on the white edges of the rooftop on the right.
When stopped down the f4, the fringing is no longer visible. If the 35mm 1.8S is the same as the 50mm, there is no fringing even wide open.
But again, for my purposes, this is not a major issue since most of my paid work is indoors where the ability to shoot at 1.4 in low light is far more important than the fringing that my client may not notice.
Shot wide open on the Z 35mm 1.4, focusing on the word Sigma, purple fringing noticeable
Shot wide open on the Z 35mm 1.4, focusing on the eyes
From the two sample shots above, the bokeh is smooth enough for my use. Being able to shoot wide open at 1.4 means that in most of my environmental portrait shoots, I should be able to blur out the background.
Conclusion, do you get the Nikon Z 35mm 1.4?
I bought this lens as a replacement for my Sigma 35mm 1.4 Art. Just based on the size and weight savings alone, as long as the Nikon Z 35mm 1.4 wasn’t a potato in terms of performance, I would have considered it a good buy. So far, in my usage, there has been no issues. I will continue to update this article as I use it in my shoots.
It’s very rare that I buy a lens new, but Nikon has done very well with this surprising lens (in terms of price and performance). I think those who need a fast 35mm in the native Z mount will find this an excellent piece of kit to own.
If you’re a fan of 50mm lenses, and wondering how the Z 50mm 1.8S performs, check out this article.
If you’re a fan of the 85mm for portraits, you can read about my comparison of the Z and F mount 85mm 1.8 lenses.
July 17, 2025
Meike 25mm f/1.8 lens review on the Nikon Z50
When the Nikon Z50 (my thoughts here) was released in 2019, many Nikon photographers were dismayed when there were only 2 native lenses at launch and even now in 2021 there is only one more additional DX lens in the Nikon roadmap. It was then up to 3rd party lens manufacturers to fill the void, and one the players that stepped up was Meike.
*2025 update, there are now many third party lenses from Sigma, Viltrox and TTArtisan to fill in the gap of crop sensored lenses.
Meike launched a cheap, manual 25mm f/1.8 prime lens for the APS-C Z mount that was listed at US$99.45 at the time of writing. It then begs the question, does the lens deliver sufficient quality for use on the Nikon Z50? How is it in use?
Is it rubbish since it is after all a cheap lens at less than a 100 USD?
Let’s dive into these questions in this mini review.
*This lens was bought using my own money, no one sent me a free item or paid me to do this. All views are my own.
Lens Aesthetics and Ergonomics
When I first handled the lens, I was pleasantly surprised at how dense and well built the lens is despite the wallet friendly price tag. Meike (美科) is a Hong Kong company previously known for making knock off products such as battery grips and flashes, they didn’t have a name for making pricey, premium items in the past (but their brand is now making cinelenses!).
The feeling in hand and first impressions of the lens is definitely above my expectations.
While I wouldn’t drop this lens for no reason to test it’s sturdiness, I can say that since this is a manual lens, it should survive impact to some degree since there are no electronics to be damaged.
The front optical element is nestled somewhat within the front of the lens, thus negating the need for a lens hood to shield the element from side light.
For those who may need a filter when using the lens, it uses a 49mm diameter filter, slightly bigger than the 46mm of the native Nikon 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 lens.
Focus and aperture ring
The focus and aperture rings are both smooth, as expected from a fully manual lens.
For video shooters especially, the de-clicked aperture ring will be a godsend when you are worried about the lens affecting the audio for your video as you are adjusting the aperture either for creative purposes or simple for exposure control.
Focusing on the Nikon Z50 is not ideal. While I have enabled focus peaking, for critical sharpness, i still prefer a zoomed in view of the subject in order to verify that I have exact focus. This is especially if you are shooting wide open at f/1.8.
For stationary subjects, this should not be an issue. For moving subjects in street photography for example, this would be something you might want to plan ahead for.
Lens Mount
A very welcome metal lens mount
Unlike the kit lens, this manual lens, despite being cheap, uses a metal mount. Not a big issue for both lenses since they are so light anyway, but I personally prefer metal mounts since I have seen the old nifty 50mm f/1.8 Canon lenses break at the mount.
Image Quality from the Meike 25mm f/1.8
Lens Sharpness
I did several test shots using the marked apertures on the lens. The sample images below:
f/1.8
f/2
f/2.8
f/4
f/5.6
f/8
f/11
f/16
Basically, while shooting the sample images, I would say that sharpness is not an issue, especially in the centre of from the frame. For best results, I would shoot at apertures of between f/2.8 to f/5.6 for maximum sharpness.
In low light conditions, to be honest, shooting wide open is not really an issue for me. However, for landscape shooters or for people who require edge to edge sharpness, you’re barking up the wrong tree here with this lens.
The corners are quite soft and you can really tell the difference in image sharpness when comparing it to the centre.
Potential evidence of field curvature, note the floors on the centre right seems blurry even though the left side is sharp
During one of the tests, while taking a shot at infinity and at f/4 I noticed an anomaly with my copy of the lens. It appeared that there was some field curvature or optical element misalignment.
Normally you would expect that the image is sharp across the plane at infinity focus, but there was one patch of the image near the centre of the frame where the image is obviously soft.
More testing is needed but I would recommend that potential buyers of the lens test if they can or check their return / exchange policies before buying.
One might also say that I am being too picky since this is only a cheap lens, but I would say that you are paying good money for it so you should expect some degree of quality from the lens and not put up with a defect.
Lens Vignetting
Taken wide open at f/1.8
As you can see from the image above, there is little or no vignetting/ light fall off on the crop sensored Z50. Even at wide open, without any correction in post, I felt that this was not an issue at all for normal usage.
For fun, I’ve mounted the lens on the full frame Nikon Z6, here’s how it looks at f5.6
Another shot, this time on Z6 again at f/1.8, wide open
For those looking to try mounting the Meike 25mm 1.8 on the full frame Z cameras, unfortunately, the lens does not work well because it was not designed to fit the larger full frame sensor.
As can be seen from the sample images above, there will be a circle when you try to shoot using the lens at no crop on the Z6 (or other full frame Z cameras).
Flare
I would say that flare is controlled in this lens. Shooting directly into a light backlighting my subject, there was only one spot of green flare to the opposite direction of the light, with some loss of contrast.
In a real life shooting situation with the morning or evening sun backlighting your subject, I believe the loss of contrast may actually be beneficial to the overall feel of the photo.
Bokeh
Close up bokeh
Personally, I have no issues with the bokeh rendered by the lens. This was taken at near minimum distance (about 25cm).
Shot wide open on the Z50
again, shot wide open on the Z50, the background is about 3-4m away from the subject
As this is a 25mm lens on an APS-C body, you would not expect extreme bokeh from it. Nevertheless, I felt that the lens will suffice for an environmental portrait lens in a pinch. You can even detect a slight circular bokeh going on here. Bokeh quality is a personal preference. I have no issues with the bokeh produced by this lens.
Conclusion
The Meike 25mm lens on the Nikon Z50, a very compact combination for street photos
So, would I recommend the Meike 25mm f/1.8 lens as a purchase? If you are looking at the Z50 as a primary camera for some reason, and you need a cheap and easy way to get into the APS-C prime game, then this lens is a no brainer at about US$100 (cheaper used!).
The sharpness in the centre, good performance in terms of vignetting makes this a good buy as long as you are someone who doesn’t mind taking things slow and using manual controls.
The small, lightweight nature of the lens complements the Z50 as a travel camera as well. A wide-ish field of view at about 37.5mm full frame equivalent, bright aperture of f/1.8 will serve you well at night in your travels.
For people needing absolute sharpness edge to edge, look elsewhere. For someone needing a cheap and cheerful lens for your Z50? A solid recommendation from me here.
If you’re looking to pair this camera and lens set with a grip, check out my thoughts on the Smallrig Grip here.
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July 17, 2025
Nikon D200 throwback review, 15 years later in 2021
The Nikon D200 was released in 2005, back when digital photography was still in it’s nascent stages and film was still reigning. The professional grade D1, D1X and D1H have already been released on the Nikon roster alongside the Nikon F5 (film pro grade body).
According to DPRreview, the D100 (my thoughts on the D100 here) started a new camera segment in the under $2000 USD range, and was a game changer as it made enthusiast grade DSLRs approachable for professionals and enthusiasts alike. The D200 looked to continue that trend.
Now, in 2021, about 15 years after it’s entry into the market, I wanted to revisit it to see how the camera has aged over the years. I’m certainly not going to change my primary camera (Nikon Z6 Mark I) to the D200, but it would be an interesting look at how far camera tech advances have progressed since the early 2000s.
Ergonomics of the D200
In hand, the grip immediately feels familiar to anyone who has used a Nikon DSLR in the last 10 years. Instead of the straight, film camera like grip from the D100, we now have the curved grip. Looking at the camera as a whole, it definitely looks as though the D200 would set the tone for the rest of the its descendants to come.
The camera is weighty, but I would describe it as a reassuring heft rather than simply heavy. The entire chassis inspires confidence, though people who have since moved on to mirrorless, like me, will feel the additional weight after a few hours.
The D200’s top left dial
A very familiar dial with all Nikon shooters
The now familiar top left dial used commonly in pro grade Nikon DSLRs is used in the D200, as compared to the older dial format used in the D100. Having shot tens of thousands of shots with Nikon Pro grade bodies from D3 onwards, my muscle memory did not fail me and I was able to use the D200 quite smoothly to change my settings.
The D200 Back LCD
A bigger LCD panel compared to the D100, but still lacking by modern standards
The bigger rear LCD panel is a welcome change compared to the tiny one on the D100. I could comfortably check my shots on the panel. Color accuracy and portrayal was also no longer an issue. The only complaint I had was that the panel itself wasn’t very high resolution. Trying to zoom in to check critical sharpness was not useful. The display size and resolution upgrade came eventually in the D300.
D200 Top LCD
The top LCD panel is quite large
The top LCD panels show the shooting information such as ISO, shutter speed and aperture settings, as well as the number of shots remaining if you need it. The large panel is welcome since all the information is laid out clearly and easy to see.
Nikon D200 Menus
The familiar custom menus have appeared here, and most modern Nikon users will be right at home using these menus, a massive upgrade from the archaic menus in the D100. There are quite a few custom functions to be used here as well, controlling the AF system, the playback and shooting as well.
Nikon D200 Buttons Layout
You may have noticed already, but the 2 button card formatting short cut had already been implemented in the D200 (one of the buttons is the mode button as shown in the picture above, with the red text beside it).
This is definitely one of the functions in Nikon DSLRs that I personally found useful, since it allows me to quickly format and prepare my storage cards before a shoot instead of going through a series of menus to do so. The current batch of mirrorless cameras do not have this shortcut (i mapped it to function buttons myself.)
Note the AF control and the card release lever
On the back of the D200, 2 important levers stand out. The lever controlling the release of the CF card slot and other controlling the AF system, whether it be single AF point or the very intuitive group AF point detection, which I found in practice to be rather accurate for tracking large subjects.
Card slot
1 CF card slot, but the slot is weather sealed
The card slot remains a single CF card slot, but the position has now been shifted to the now familiar right side of the camera, with the release button there as well. The slot is opened from the lever at the back, visible in the top left of the picture.
There is built in weather sealing, with rubber gaskets around the card slot to prevent or slow entry of water.
Sensor/ Image quality on the Nikon D200
Color edits added, but the original image wasn’t bad to begin with
As I mentioned in the D100, sensor tech has advanced rapidly over the years. A sensor from 15 years ago, even one that is of APS-C size, can barely keep up even with smartphone cameras, especially those from high end phones such as iPhone Maxes and the Samsung S2xs with optimised software and hardware.
With a decent prime lens like the Nikon AF-S 50mm 1.4G, however, one can still get some pretty good pictures that are sufficient for small prints and smartphone screens.
Nikon D200 Resolution
The D200 CCD sensor offers only about 10.2MP, nothing much to shout about now, but back in 2005 this was pretty much state of the art. At this MP count, one can expect to print images of 13 by 9 inches ( 1inch = 2.54 cm) at 300ppi. This means we could print A4 sizes comfortably.
Image quality comparisons
During shooting, I noticed that the ISO options in the D200 are leaning more towards the exposing brighter situations compared to the D100, given that the base ISO has been reduced to 100 instead of 200 and the maximum ISO (Hi-1) is now only 3200 instead of the D6400 in the D100.
Both images shot at 50mm, f5.6. Left image is at ISO 100, right image is at Hi 1 (3200)
At base ISO up to ISO 400, I would have no issues with image quality. After 800, though, the grain starts becoming more prominent. At Hi 1 (ISO 3200), the image is extremely grainy and there is reddish/ purple color noise in the dark areas. As you can see from the comparison above, there is a yellowish/reddish tinge to the image shot at ISO 3200.
I won’t say the image is rubbish, but if you zoom in, the image falls apart.
Dynamic Range
Raw image shot at ISO 125, adjusted in Lightroom
The image above was adjusted in Lightroom and had shadows boosted and highlights recovered. Apologies for the lacklustre sunset image but I was more interested in testing the sensor of the camera. Shooting in raw at base ISOs yield very decent image quality with good dynamic range. Definitely useable even by 2021 standards.
The D200’s Autofocus
Nikon Multi-CAM 1000 used in the D200
The D200 uses the 11 point Multi cam 1000 which was later used for more than a decade even until the D3500. Whether Nikon made improvements on the module over the years remains to be seen. The AF system worked reasonable well during the tests, albeit on relatively non challenging subjects such as slow moving animals.
Single point speed
Using the camera in single point was fast and snappy, but the AF speed also depends largely on the lens being used. Third party lenses with weaker AF motors will naturally be slower, while the pro grade 2.8 zooms will be blazing fast.
Tracking
Tracking using Group Dynamic AF Modes
When the camera is set to continuous focus mode, using the AF mode dial at the back set at group AF, I was able to achieve reasonably fast tracking speeds using the Nikon 24-70 2.8 zoom.
Video
Similar to the D100, this generation of Nikon Dxxx series has yet to implement a video taking mode. Naturally, you can take “videos” by building a time lapse from the photos shot on the D200, if you consider that videography 😉
Concluding thoughts
Image quality is objectively decent but lacking somewhat in 2021
The jump from D100 to D200 was staggering. The D200 felt familiar in so many ways, from the custom menu layouts to the dials and button placements. The top left dial last all the way even til the D850, one of the most advanced DSLRs ever made (at least as of 2021). The button placements at the back and the AF switch remained at the locations introduced in the D200. The AF module was used all the way until the present, in the entry level bodies.
Ergonomics and useability wise, there were very few complaints from me in the D200.
Image quality was an issue, however. The age of the sensor is showing, and the lack of megapixels is an issue in the age of 4k displays in TVs, monitors and smartphones. At base ISO, shooting raw files, one is still able to recover some highlights and shadows. Above ISO 1600, however image quality starts to fall apart.
Would I recommend anyone buy a used D200?
Used prices in Singapore in 2026
Even if you’re yearning for nostalgia, to be honest, there’s better value to be had in getting a used D300 over this. The older sensor, relatively weak AF system and the pricing of the D300 (in Singapore, you can get a beater set for under SG$150) means that the D200 has well and truly been rendered obsolete.
Collectors, of course, would buy it just for the sake of getting one. Otherwise, your money is better spent elsewhere.
Note: From 2025, because of social media, there is a trend of getting a “CCD look”. Many older cameras with a CCD sensor has been getting a second look from the social media crowd, as such, D200s with their CCD has been getting a better price than ones with CMOS like the D300 even though the specs are better.
For more content, you can read about my thoughts on the D100 and the D300s too 🙂
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July 17, 2025
Nikon D100 Review in 2021, after 20 years
The Nikon D100 was released in 2001, back when digital photography was still in it’s nascent stages and film was still reigning. The professional grade D1, D1X and D1H have already been released on the Nikon roster alongside the Nikon F5 (film pro grade body).
According to DPReview, the D100 started a new camera segment in the under $2000 USD range, and was potentially a game changer as it made enthusiast grade DSLRs even more approachable for professionals and enthusiasts alike.
Now, in 2021, 20 years after it’s entry into the market, I would like to revisit it to see how the camera has aged over the years. Coming on the back of a Nikon Z6 (my primary camera), I am under no illusion that the D100 can compete, but it would be an interesting look to see how the digital photographer technology has progressed over the years and see what has changed.
The D100’s Ergonomics
Grip
One thing that has made improvements over the years is definitely grip design. When I first held the D100, I noticed that the grip felt distinctly different from what I was used to. It wasn’t as rounded as the D3 and not as good a fit as the D750. However, I would say that the grip still allowed me to carry the Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4 with no major issues.
Top LCD
One piece of technology that did not change for about 17 years (until the Z6) was the top plate LCD. Seems like the same type of LCD panel was used to display shooting information all the way until the OLED was used in the Z6 mirrorless bodies.
On the other hand, as we only need to see the essential shooting information, the fact that it’s there at all was already very good for my shooting experience.
Back LCD
One thing that struck me, as in REALLY hit me, was the size of the LCD. Being used to modern smartphones and tablets with their humongous, high resolution screens really made the viewing experience of the LCD on the D100 a chore.
It was very hard to verify focus with the small, 1.8 inch screen when I’m trying to zoom in, and the dynamic range of the screen is so poor that I can’t be sure that I have exposed the shot properly.
Still, looking at it from the 2001 perspective, it definitely one ups film cameras in that you can at least verify the rough exposure and composition of the picture you took as compared to a film camera.
Menus
When I opened the menus for the first time, I was speechless. This odd sense of nostalgia hit me as I was transported momentarily back to the early days of Windows 98 and Windows 2000, playing my Nintendo Gameboy and watching TV on those fat cathode ray TVs.
Going through the menu also has a slight lag.
The menus have gone through a huge change over the years, with UI/UX improving leaps and bounds. Still, the simple/spartan menus made it easy to navigate camera functions.
Buttons
Throughout the years, Nikon has had a bad habit of moving the button layout from generation to generation. Imagine my chagrin, then at having to relearn the button presses for quite a few functions.
Firstly, the image review button is not a “play” arrow, but rather that monitor like display button at the top left of the camera. To magnify the image during review, you have to first press enter at the bottom to select the image, then press the middle button in conjunction with the rear dial in order to punch in.
Way too many button presses in my opinion, I’m so glad they improved on this in their next iteration of the 3 digit DSLRs.
Card Slot
This was the era of small CF cards, and back then, using digital storage was already a big deal, let alone dual card slots. The card slot door is locked by a catch on the side, simply pull open the door, no button presses required. Removing the card requires the small rectangular button to be pressed, however.
Sensor/ Image quality on the D100
Time has not been kind to sensor tech. A sensor from 20 years ago can barely keep up even with smartphone cameras, especially those from high end phones such as iPhone Maxes and the Samsung S20s.
With a decent prime lens like the Nikon AF-S 50mm 1.4G, one can still get some pretty good pictures that are sufficient for small prints and smartphone screens.
Taken in the late afternoon in good light. Color was edited in post.
Informal image quality tests
I took a few shots in night with the camera locked off on a tripod. All images were shot at f/4 on a Nikon AF-S 50mm 1.4G for better lens sharpness.
Base ISO 200
At base ISO, if you pixel peep, you can already see luminance noise/ grainyness. However, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. The image is definitely useable at base ISO.
ISO 1600
Excuse the ghosting. ISO 1600 is noisy but I would say is useable in very low requirement scenarios like viewing on a small screen or for small prints.
ISO H1 (3200)
Banding in the shadows and color noise appearing as well. Modern cameras have no problem handling ISO3200 but this is 2001 tech after all.
ISO H2(6400)
Severe banding in the shadows as well as color noise everywhere, basically, H2 is for emergencies when you just need the shot regardless of the image quality.
Dynamic range
I was able to get detail from the shadow areas of the image by pushing the shadow slider in Lightroom CC to about +66. I could also recover some highlight detail from the sky by lowering the highlight slider to about -15. The image was shot at base ISO of 200. Not a bad performance from a 20 year old camera, for sure. However, modern sensors, especially the Sony made 24 MP ones, will blow this out of the water.
Resolution
The shot of the collared kingfisher is uncropped, but to be honest, at 6MP, there wasn’t much room for cropping anyway. I’m using a 28 inch 4k monitor and the image barely fills up the entire display. Nevertheless, I personally found the quality of the image acceptable, despite the lack of resolution.
sample shot
Autofocus system
Copyright @Mir D100 Article
The D100 uses one of the first generations of AF systems developed by Nikon. The 5 point AF system worked well for it’s time, with decent single AF speed and could even track moving subjects in relatively simple scenarios.
AF Tracking
I was able to track a bird in flight using the 5 point autofocus system. Granted, it was taken against a cloudless sky with extremely high contrast, so I wouldn’t say that the AF system was pushed here to any extent. While we have been spoilt silly by the newest AF systems with more than 200 AF points, the 5 point system here worked to get the pigeon in focus.
Single point speed
I was able to grab a shot of the pigeon flying in over the water using single focus. I was using the centre point of the system but the speed was still good enough for me to get the pigeon sharp. Any blur was due to motion blur as I did not prepare for the pigeon to suddenly swoop in and was using a relatively slow shutter speed of 1/400s.
Video
Nothing to see here, you can take “videos” by building a time lapse from the photos shot on the D100, that’s all 😉
Concluding thoughts
This has not been a traditional review.
No one in their right mind would recommend someone to buy a 20 year old camera to shoot professionally. In many cases, even your smartphone may be better than what the D100 can offer in terms of image quality.
Still, this has been an interesting look at how technology has progressed in the digital photography realm. I’m definitely thankful to be loaned this unit by a friend who collects old cameras and keeps them in working condition.
I’ll be looking at it’s next iteration, the Nikon D200 in the next review. if you’ve enjoyed this blast from the past look , keep a look out for the next review.
Until next time.
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July 17, 2025