Author: Chris Puan

The Nikon D750 released to great fanfare in 2014 due to the long delay with releasing a proper Nikon D700 replacement. There had not been a light (small body) full frame with similar capabilities to the current flagship bodies as had the D700 been to the D3.

I was thrilled to be able to purchase one a year ago as I had already “poisoned” myself into buying one some time back. It was meant to be used alongside my D3S, replacing the D610 that I had been using previously.

After having used it for more than 2 years (and more than 25k shutter actuations later through events, portrait shoots and birding), I feel that I can comment properly on it from both an enthusiast grade photographer and a freelancer.

Note: I have already moved on to the Nikon Z system and these opinions were from the past.

Ergonomics

Grip

Those who dabble regularly in event photography, or anybody who has to hold on to a DSLR for a long period will appreciate the relatively light camera body (compared to a conventional Full-frame DSLR). This, coupled with the excellent grip, allows for great ergonomics.

Personally, having used it with long lenses (70-200mm, Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4D), I feel that the grip will definitely please the user.

The introduction of a tilting LCD monitor was truly a boon for myself. Having used the D3 and the D700 extensively, sometimes, I yearn for an easy way to get shots from unusual angles without having to contort my ageing body into strange positions or adopt un-glamourous positions in public.

One personal anecdote was during a photowalk with other photo enthusiasts, I could get a ground level shot of a cat (yes, another cat photo adding to the billions already out there) simply by tilting the screen and shooting.

The other photographers (using Leicas I might add) had to make do with guesswork or viewing the LCD from an awkward angle.

One concern was durability, since dropping it from an open position with the screen out will likely lead to severe damage. In that case, I recommend being disciplined and always storing the monitor after use.

Speed (FPS)

In an era of blazing fast cameras, the 6.5FPS of the D750 might seem paltry. Nevertheless, the speed is just enough for simple sports and action photography. Ideally, you should be timing your shot instead of spraying and praying anyway. Saves on your time deleting the shots you don’t want 🙂

I use it when birding and shooting some simple dance festivals in Japan. Nothing hardcore but most people buying this probably won’t need anything particularly powerful.

If you do, the D500 will suit you better.

Some people may felt that the mode dial on the D750 is a prosumer dial instead of the pro grade dial on the D800 series. I feel that it is a matter of personal preference, since I do prefer the added user friendliness of the U1 and U2 modes. It’s easy to use in my opinion. For events, I set them to match the ambient light (U1) and to  match my flash settings (U2) respectively.

Nikon D750 Autofocus

AF Point spread

One of the complaints of the D610 was the CAM4800 Autofocus seemingly brought in wholesale from the D7000 without being adjusted for the full frame coverage.

The CAM 3500 AF system in the D750 sort of fixes this with a larger number of AF points (51 points) but one might still miss the larger spread as seen on the D3 series and the D800 series (I may be wrong about the similarities between the two).

For reference, please check the excellent comparison table from: https://nikonrumors.com/2014/10/20/nikon-confirms-the-51-af-points-in-the-d750-are-narrower-compared-to-the-d810.aspx/

Still, the amount of AF point spread should suffice except for the most extreme of photo composers (in which case centre-point focus-recompose might deliver great mileage.)

Autofocus speed

The AF speed is sufficient for most purposes, even for light sporting events. I was fortunate to cover a sports event using this and with some prediction of events, I was able to get some decent shots.

Also, as you can expect, the tested and proven 3D tracking system has worked its magic in many situations such that many photographer swear by it. For the beginner, putting the initial AF point on the subject and then allowing the camera to track the subject will result in the camera automatically following the subject.

As a caveat, the AF accuracy is dependent on lens calibration and compatibility. I have had no issues with most lenses that cannot be resolved with a tweak of the AF calibration settings.

Nikon D750 Lens compatibility

The D750, with its screw drive autofocus system, will drive the AF gears of my AF-D lenses with no issue.

There appears to be no problems with mounting old lenses (AI/ AIS) as well except for the lack of optimisation due to old lens designs and coatings (ie you cannot expect sharpness and flare performance of comparable to modern lens designs)

For reference, check the Nikon USA link.

Sensor and Image Quality on the Nikon D750

Resolution

24 megapixels will suffice for most purposes. You can get a decent amount of detail yet not have to worry about huge files clogging up your hard drive. The megapixel war that’s happening nowadays (seemingly still going on in 2025) is making disk space capacity a problem for many photographers. The quality of the image will most likely be decided by the lens you choose rather than the sensor itself.

ISO invariance

The concept of ISO invariance started when the Nikon D800, with its then incredible sensor, was release. One could shoot at ISO 100 and from a near black photo uncover an astounding amount of details from the shadows.

Continuing the trend, the D750 is not slouch in this area. It has huge amounts of details in the shadow areas when shot at ISO 100. The implication is that you could shoot at low ISOs to maintain the maximum possible dynamic range. In my experience, you can shoot in raw and push the exposure by 5 stops in the raw processor.

Simply magnificent.

Landscape photographers will love this camera for this.

Video on the Nikon D750

The powered aperture makes an appearance again, very much welcome by videographers. Nowadays, people take this for granted, but this feature was something the broke free from the usual Nikon crippling of their cameras in the past (pre-mirrorless) by not being able to switch apertures of G lenses while recording.

The tiling screen is especially useful. I usually take videos at waist level with my arms cradling the camera in a stable position.

Conclusion

Is it still a good buy now in 2025?

Sure, why not.

This is despite newer bodies being introduced that has taken the shine off the older models. This in no way renders the D750 an obsolete model since it can still take outstanding pictures (at 24MP) and videos (albeit FHD instead of 4K). Another plus is that old AF-D lenses with the screw drive AF mechanism can be used with no issues (perfect for those on a budget!)

If you can score unit pre-loved for a good price in 2025(currently SG$750 onwards), go for it and don’t look back. The D750 is a trusty camera that will serve you well.

I also talk about Z mount cameras like the Nikon Z50.

I used a the Sigma 85mm 1.4 in the past on this camera as well.

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The venerable Nikon D7000 was released to much fanfare back in 2010, on the back of the excellent D90. The D7000 came with a sensor upgrade from 12MP to 16 MP, plus an improvement to the autofocus system to boot (from 11 points to 39 points).

It never really replaced the “pro” grade D300s, but rather existed alongside it to provide users with a choice of a higher grade sensor with better video, or a better built body with a better autofocus system.

Now, in 2021, as a digital media manager in charge of photography, videography, design and basic web development, I’ve been using the old but gold Nikon D7000 for the past few months for work (it was the only camera available on company premises, I personally own the Nikon Z6 Mark I).

In my work, I am required to create marketing collaterals for my company’s website as well as for the e-commerce platform.

This is therefore a review of the Nikon D7000 in 2021, from a working professional’s point of view. Some questions addressed here:

Is a 10 year old camera still relevant in 2021 and beyond?

Would I get better results from the latest cameras or even smartphones?

If you have one, should you upgrade from your D7000, even if it is still working?

Nikon D7000’s ergonomics, same old feeling

I was first handed the company Nikon D7000 to use for the creation of our company’s latest venture, using an e-commerce platform to sell hampers and landscaping/gardening goods (the company is a landscaping company).

Having used the D7000 a decade before, the controls all came back to me in a jiffy. The viewfinder, layout and grip felt intuitive, just as I remembered. Certainly, no one will complain about the build quality of Nikon’s enthusiast grade DSLR offerings in general use cases. In any case, this unit was working fine, except for the LCD screen which failing and had severe vignetting.

In this age of smartphones, people might wonder why we even need dedicated cameras. A lot can be said about the feeling of a sturdily built camera in hand. Granted, the weight of a DSLR may not be for everyone, but the tactile feel of the camera, allowing the user to “switch” into photo shooting mode, is something intangible that must be experienced first hand.

Image Quality from the D7000

Pairing it with the Nikon 18-105mm VR f/3.5-5.6 kit lens, I set about taking some shots of the goods that we will be selling. I understood that the older sensors did not have the ISO invariance that became rather famous after the release of the 24MP sensors by Sony. I therefore knew that the raw files could not withstand as much pushing as the ones from the newer sensors.

Generally, the raw files cleaned up very well in Lightroom when taken in good lighting, this shots were taken in the late morning or late afternoon. The first image had some flaring issues, this was lens based and had nothing to do with the D7000 sensor.

I then took photos using speedlights, and here the ISO values were kept below 400. Images were clean and full of detail.

One usability factor to raise is that the pop up flash on the D7000 is extremely useful for controlling external flashes under S1 receiver mode (ie. the external flashes will strobe in response to the on board camera flash). This made my workflow much faster.

I generally had no complaints for the image quality for the work that I was doing (studio lighting with little need for a massive dynamic range) and amount of details that I could get from the raw files below ISO 400. I was able to push the shadow details in Lightroom somewhat.

I would, however, recommend not pushing the shadow slider above 50 if you don’t want to see a lot of noise in the shadow portions of of the image.

How’s the D7000’s Image quality compared to a smartphone?

Smartphone camera image quality has seen astounding improvements over the years. One might wonder if DSLRs have any image quality advantages over computational photography offered by phones like the Google Pixel and the iPhone.

Again, it depends.

If you’re willing to take the time and effort to take a picture using proper technique and also process the raw photos, you realise you may have a lot of more creative control over how your picture will turn out compared to the “pre-baked” photos spit out by an iPhone, for example.

Getting a D7000 second hand in 2021

In 2026, a brief check on Carousell, one of the main platforms for selling second hand items, showed that a D7000 without a lens can be had for under SGD300.If you’re lucky, you may find a beater set (well used) for under $300 including the lens to start you off.

Should you get a second hand Nikon D7000? (update 2025)

Whether a second hand D7000 is still a good purchase depends a lot on your use case.

-If you are on a budget

-You would prefer an enthusiast grade camera with sufficient manual controls

– You want to use Nikon AF-D lenses which use the screw drive for autofocus

– You need a built in flash for external flash control

For:

People on a budget but need a dedicated camera for casual sports, birding, everyday situations, simple studio work not requiring high resolution output.

Not for:

People who need superior image quality, the 16 Megapixel sensor is outdated and the image quality shows, especially when you push it under extreme lighting conditions

People who want very nice and smooth bokeh, especially with the kit lens (one will need to make the jump to full frame)

People who want the instant ability share a photo or video taken (just stick to your smartphone :D)

Check out my other reviews on the D100, D200 and D300s.

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Originally, I wanted to do some research on this tripod to make an informed decision to buy the Manfrotto 055C Tripod (also called 055CB).

During my attempt to find more information about this tripod, I realised to my surprise I could find scant information even on the internet. The only information I could unearth was some basic specs and the rough age of this particular series (more than 20 years from 2016, apparently.)

Hence, here is a modern review of the Manfrotto 055C (Art 055C or 055CB) tripod with the 329 3-way Pan Tilt Head, mainly for landscapes and basic product shoots.

Overview of the Manfrotto 055C Tripod

The 055C is an aluminium, 3 segment tripod. It goes up to a height of about slightly under 6 ft (182cm) when fully extended without including the height of the tripod head ( this is a rough estimate only).

The leg locks are not the modern closing locks, but an older twist design. They are very sturdy, I find that they are pretty stiff during my attempts to unlock the legs when adjusting the tripod height for my landscape shoot. The stiffness does contribute to the rock solid feel of the tripod. Still, if it is an issue, you may wish to loosen the bolts of the leg locks for ease of use in the field.

Despite being a very old model of the 055 series, it already features the adjustable leg angle. This allows the tripod to go low to the ground for macro or a low angle view for your chosen composition.

The 329 3 Way Tripod Head

The 329 Head that came with the tripod allowed me very precise adjustments for my composition. It has dual bubble levels, 2 handles for adjusting tilt and one lock for adjusting the smoothness of panning.

The Manfrotto 3 way head allows for superb control of camera movements. You can control the horizontal, vertical and diagonal movements, allowing for pretty precise positioning and framing of the camera. The head is also very dampened, allowing for precision. This will be greatly appreciated by photographers who do not like cropping or making adjustments in angle in post processing.

For those who need the additional height, you can also extend the central column by another 10-12cm thereabouts. The entire combination becomes pretty tall, about 180cm when deployed with legs fully opened. With the tripod being so sturdy, there is no wobble even fully opened.

The head is also operated by loosening and tightening the levers. When you need to adjust the position, you would loosen the corresponding levers and shift the head. After that, you can tighten the lever by rotating it the opposite direction. Again, once you’ve tightened all the levers, the head will be extremely stable and you can count on it not to move and interfere with your camera framing.

I like that some of the movements allowed are also marked in case you need to remember the positioning of the camera on the tripod head.

Weight Issues

The issue is that the head itself is a rather heavy beast, coupled with the heft of the tripod itself, and we’re looking at a package easily exceeding 2 kg in weight (the 055C alone weighs 2.67kgs/5.9lbs).

If you are using a long lens with a DSLR, the entire combination will be make for excellent arm training. 😉

Conclusion

I bought this tripod and head combination for about SGD$160 in 2012. The tripod has served me well in the studio and during shoots where I need a taller tripod. This was especially useful in crowds where I need to shoot over the heads of others since it is a heavy and stable tripod even when raised to the maximum height.

Weight and size is an issue, especially when I am lugging this around on a hike or taking public transport.

Despite being an old piece of gear, this is something that will last you many years with good care and maintenance, and if you can pick it up cheap, definitely worth it if you can handle the weight.

(Article update in 2023 for weight and usage notes.)

An article about the camera and lens combination I used with this tripod here.

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When Nikon made the jump from the F mount, with all it’s years of history, to the new Z mount, it promised that the larger mount and shorter flange distance would allow for better lens designs.

I’ve had the Nikon AF-S 85mm 1.8G (hereafter 85mm 1.8G) for close to 10 years now, and I managed to get my hands on a loan copy of the Nikon 85mm 1.8S (85mm 1.8S) for the Z mount.

The loan was from Nikon Experience Hub Singapore, but the thoughts are my own (I am not sponsored by anyone, would love to get a sponsorship though).

Here, I wanted to compare the difference between the Nikon AF-S 85mm 1.8G F mount and the Nikon 85mm 1.8S Z mount, and see if it is worth upgrading when you already have the older lens.

Bigger, better? Lens handling explored

The 85mm 1.8S is longer than the 1.8G, but once you add the FTZ adaptor on the G lens, it becomes heavier and longer. The 1.8G is also fatter.

Ergonomically, the 1.8G has a smaller focus ring, though for videographers, the focus ring is coupled to the mechanism, allowing for actual, precise manual focusing on the fly.

The 1.8S has a larger focusing ring, it is smooth, but being focus by wire, some people may not like it. Personally, I prefer the focusing ring on the 1.8G but that’s just me being old fashioned. Focus by wire works fine in practice for my needs.

If you are using filters and you’re upgrading from the G to S version, there’s no issue here. Both lenses have a 67mm filter thread. Personally, I use a protective filter from B+W on the front of the lens just in case of dust or sand exposure in the field.

On my Nikon Z7II, the AF-S 85mm 1.8G feels well balanced, even with the FTZ adaptor. According to online specs, the combined weight is 485g (350g + 135g). In comparison, the 85mm 1.8S weighs 470g just for the lens.

In field usage, I doubt if anyone will really feel the weight difference.

In terms of overall handling, mounted on the same Nikon Z7II body, both lenses feel good in hand.

Autofocus

In this blog, I am not able to show the speed of the AF in both combinations, so you’ll need to take my word for it. I don’t see major differences in speed between the two. During work, the AF-S 85mm 1.8G suffices in terms of AF speed on my Nikon Z7II.

The stepper motor on the 1.8S might be nice for people doing automatic focus pulling in camera (you can control the autofocus speed in the movie settings) but since I prefer manual focus when focus pulling anyway, there is no incentive here for me to upgrade.

Image Quality Comparisons

Sharpness

For my usage, the most important aspect of the lens is sharpness, contrast and bokeh.

The screenshots are from lightroom at 100% zoom.

You can see that there is an overall significant improvement in sharpness from the 85mm 1.8 S compared to the 1.8G. There is greater “bite” in the images, especially when you look at the outlines of the buildings.

Also, I noticed that there is chromatic aberration along areas of high contrast in the 1.8G which is absent in the 1.8S.

For the 1.8G, sharpness improves dramatically once you stop down beyond f/2.8. For the 1.8S the sharpness is already there wide open, the additional improvements won’t matter to most people in the field.

Purple Fringing Present?

In this image, you can see the difference even further. The leaves on the trees for the 1.8G shot are blurred, while the leaves remain crisp on the picture taken on the 1.8S. I am also noticing purple fringing on the edges of the white painted building.

Bokeh

When comparing the bokeh, I’m not seeing any major differences between the two. Ideally, I would prefer to have a model to shoot with but I will have to make do with my fat cat plushie. For my use, bokeh would not be something I would consider when thinking about whether to upgrade to the S version.

Price

In Singapore, as of July 2024, the price difference between the G and the S versions is about 2-2.5 times at pre-loved pricing. You might be able to get a 85mm 1.8S for about SG$750-800, while the 1.8G will cost you between SG$300-$450 depending on the condition. Brand new, shops are the selling the 85mm S lens for slightly under SG$1000.

I would not buy the AF-S 85mm 1.8G new in 2024. If budget is a big issue but you still need to shoot native Z mount, the Viltrox 85mm 1.8 might also be worthy of consideration (I wish I had a copy to test though).

Conclusion, Buy the Nikon 85mm 1.8G or Z 85mm 1.8S?

For my own usage, given that I don’t need absolute sharpness in my work in corporate event shoots and casual photoshoots where the output is mainly social media, I’ll stick to the Nikon AF-S85mm 1.8G with the adaptor. The weight and size differences are minimal and acceptable for me.

Being able to save the extra $400 bucks for other equipment that can make a significant difference in my services to clients (a drone, for eg.) rather than the much better sharpness and lower chromatic aberration, make more sense to me.

However, if you need native Z mount, and can appreciate the superb sharpness, smooth focusing of the stepper motor and a less fiddly 85mm solution, go for the Nikon 85mm 1.8S, it’s an outstanding lens that is worth your money.

Looking for a 50mm for your Z mount camera? Check out my thoughts on the 50mm 1.8S here.

If you’re a fan of something wider, I also talk about the Nikon Z 35mm 1.4 here.

The 85mm 1.8G pairs very well with the Nikon D750 though.

The Nikon DX camera lineup started with the Nikon Z50, a capable APS-C camera using a similar 20 megapixel sensor as the DSLR D500, ie. a tried and trusted image machine.

The Z50 was released way back in October 10th 2019, before the pandemic, and likely many Z camera users got one as a backup camera to their main full frame body.

I got my Z50 in 2020 as a backup camera to my Z6 Mk I. It has proven to be a solid choice, accompanying me on holidays and small assignments alike because of the power packed into a small body.

Fast forward 3 years, and the Z30 was released in August 5th 2022, targeted at video content creators and streamers. It was not marketed as an upgrade to the Z50, but are there enough quality of life improvements for you to replace the Z50 with the Z30?

If you are looking to get an APS-C Z camera, which is better for you?

In this comparison article, let’s try to answer these questions.

Ergonomics

Weight

The Nikon Z30 weighs 405g while the Z50 weighs 450g, the difference is likely due to the lack of a viewfinder and flash unit on the Z30. Still, I doubt most people will notice the weight difference, especially when you have larger lenses (like a Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4D!) mounted.

Both are light enough with small primes (like this Meike 25mm) and the included kit lens.

Grip

Both cameras have similar feeling grips. My hands are about average for an Asian male, and I have no issues holding the cameras with the kit lens.

When the lens is bigger, say when I’ve adapted an F mount (especially telephoto)lens onto them, I tend to hold the lens rather than the camera anyway.

Again, little differences between the two. I would say, however, I tend to hold the flip out screen of the Z30 and the grip when using the camera with 2 hands.

Button Layout

One thing that continues to annoy me is the use of capacitative buttons on the back of the Z50 rather than physical buttons. In a warm place, there is no issue.

In a cold environment, when I am wearing gloves, this is a major hindrance when I need to change display settings like level and zooming in and out of the picture.

If you compare this to the Z30 back button layout in the picture on top, I personally prefer that, especially since most of the controls are physical and placed on the right side.

The delete button on the left is fine, when i review or delete any unwanted pictures I tend to use 2 hands anyway.

I had no issues with the top control layout on the Z50. The lever to switch between photo and video modes made a lot of sense to me, and I never had trouble reaching any of the buttons I wanted on the top.

The Z30 made some changes to the top button layout.

The video recording button has shifted down towards to the back and has become larger, a nod towards the more video centric purpose of the camera.

The removal of the “Scene” mode is a surprise since I expected this camera to be more “entry” than the Z50, but personally, I welcome the simplification since I personally never used the “Scene” mode anyway. My main modes are M, A, S, then U1 and U2 for stored settings.

Screen

Many people lambasted the screen on the Z50 for its odd movement downwards compared to a normal flip out screen. While I personally have no issues using it normally, especially during travel or even during event coverage, when mounted on a tripod, things are different.

In my own usage, unless you used a workaround where you had the Smallrig bottom plate to mount the tripod on the side, you will never be able to see yourself when the camera is mounted on a tripod.

The Z30 has a proper flip out screen where the tripod does not interfere with its usage. Content creators using the screen to check your own framing when shooting yourself will welcome this new screen for sure.

Flash

There is no flash on the Z30.

Personally, I use the flash on the Z50 for a few things.

I will use it for fill flash or to illuminate my subject at night when there is no other light source and I really just need a photo.

I also use it to control my manual flashes for casual product photography.

You’ll need a separate flash or controller for the Z30.

Video recording

For Youtubers and solo content creators in general, the Z30 has a small but useful quality of life improvement. There is now a red tally light telling you when the camera is recording. It definitely saves time since I no longer have to go around the camera to double check the screen to see if I have pressed the recording button.

Battery compartment

Both the Z30 and the Z50 have battery compartments shared with the SD card slot. This is annoying, especially with the Z50 since I sometimes use the bottom plate to solve the screen blocking issue I mentioned just now.

Both use the same small battery (EN-EL25) and charger. According to official CIPA ratings, Z30 offers 330 shots compared to the 320 shots on the Z50. The difference is minor and I feel battery life depends on your usage of the camera anyway.

Charging and ports

Improvements on charging have been made to the Z30 compared to the Z50.

While the Z50 could already be charged via the Micro USB port on the left of the camera, the Z30 can now be used while it is charging as well when being charged by an external battery pack or outlet.

Another change I appreciate is that charging can be done via USB C, meaning we can now share out smartphone chargers with the camera.

One similarity is that both cameras will have a small red LED on the left to indicate that the camera is being charged when you plug in a power source.

To me, charging via USB C is a big improvement since there is one less cable/ charger for me to bring when travelling.

Image quality

I will not go into details here since both cameras use similar sensors and you will be far better served on the big camera review websites like DPReview for image quality tests.

I will say, however, both perform well enough for me during my travels and my light assignments (no dark conditions).

Pricing in Singapore

Currently, on Carousell (a platform for selling used items), both cameras are priced about the same at SG$850 for a body and kit lens set in 2023.

Officially, the Z50 should be the more expensive camera but it is also older, so you might get better deals used.

Conclusion

Which should you buy then?

If you’re buying new, unless you really need the flash or viewfinder, get the Z30.

If you’re able to find both on the used market, I would lean towards whichever camera offers greater cost savings since they both have advantages over the other, Z50 for the viewfinder and the flash, Z30 for the USB C charging and better flip-out screen or if you are looking for a particular feature.

Personally, if I can sell my Z50 and get a Z30 for the same or lower price, I’ll pull the trigger.

If you need a 50mm equivalent and also a small compact lens, check out the Nikon 35mm 1.4.

If you prefer the sharp Nikon 50mm 1.8 S, check this out.

The Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4D has been released almost 20 years ago. It has compatibility with both new and old cameras, with it’s AF-S motor but still retaining the aperture ring (pictured). As mentioned in the title, it is even compatible with the Z series cameras!

Having used this lens for birding for the past almost 8 years on both the DSLRs and the Mirrorless cameras, I would like to share my thoughts on how the lens performs, focusing on the newer Z cameras like the Nikon Z50 (since it’s performance on the DSLRs has been well documented.)

Image quality (Sharpness)

Being a telephoto prime, despite the smaller f/4 aperture, it remains tack sharp even wide open. Here are some sample images for your reference.

Autofocus Speed

I found the AF speed on the Z6, even with the 1.4x teleconverter (TC), to be reasonably fast. AF on the Z50 is more hit and miss, with more hunting based on my personal experience. Using the lens without a TC on the Z50 is recommended in my opinion.

In general, AF on the Z6 is better with or without a TC as compared to the Z50.

I have not comprehensively tested the tracking but in my general use I don’t have issues on the Z6 when tracking birds in flight across the sky or plain background.

I would love to hear comments on lens performance in work related usage like in sporting events.

Another point is that AF-S motor are generally faster than the stepping motors in the Z series lenses but have a stuttery feel to them. Stepping motors in comparison feel smoother (I’m comparing the 300mm f/4 against the Z50 or Z6 kit lens ). This point might be important to videographers looking to do AF during video shooting.

Ergonomics

Buttons on the lens

The lens has 2 main switches, the AF/MF switch and the AF limiter.

Personally, I leave the AF switch on Autofocus and use it as such. We can override the focus anytime by turning the AF ring anyway.

For the limiter switch, depending on the situation, I may choose to limit the AF range to reduce hunting. Example, when I am certain that the wildlife is going to be far away, I’ll leave it at infinity to 3m.

Otherwise, I might use the full range, especially when the birds are tamer and I can get close (like the bird shot with fruit in its mouth)

With the FTZ adaptor

The lens is a little unwieldy with body the 1.4x TC and the FTX adaptor on both the Z50 and the Z6.

With the FTX adaptor alone, however, the combination feels solid with no rattling.

One potential issue is the balance of the lens compared to the lighter body of the Z series. With DSLRs, the long lens is counterbalanced by the weight of the body. With the mirrorless bodies, the 300mm f4 D combo becomes front heavy, especially since you need to use it with the FTZ adaptor which exacerbates the issue.

Vibration Reduction (VR) / in body stabilisation on the Z6

One of the “weaknesses” of the AFS 300mm f/4D was the lack of in lens VR. This was addressed in the PF version of the lens, but in Singapore, the price difference is about 3x (!). I was thrilled to use the older lens on the Z6 with its in-body stabilisation.

During framing, gone are the micro jitters in the viewfinder due to the long focal length (and my habit of drinking too much coffee). Shots of 1/160s with the 300mm f4 and Z6 combo are possible.

Sadly, there are no DX cameras in the Z line up with in body stabilisation, so I would still recommend using a monopod when using the lens on the Z50 or any of the DX bodies in 2023. I’m hoping Nikon will release a DX camera with in body stabilisation.

Conclusion

The Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4 D is a sharp, fast focusing lens.

In combination with the FX bodies with their in body stabilisation, this makes for a value for money birding combo, especially if you score a cheap full frame Z series camera as well pre-loved.

This is still my go-to combo for casual birding, highly recommended as second hand buy!

I used the Manfrotto 055C Tripod with this combination in the past.

If you’re looking for a small nifty lens to use with the Z50.

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